Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all

I'm bound to have posted this in the wrong section again but here goes.

The back of my panel van is ply lined and carpeted but it's a bit tatty and I want to remove some of it to re-wire.

It's been ply lined in large sheets floor to ceiling and then carpet stuck over that and the remaining metalwork.

Firstly what are the pros and cons to complete ply lining like this versus just lining the panel recesses.

Secondly does any one know what's best to remove glue from the internal painted metalwork?



The blue Astro carpet and blue camo curtains are also going btw.

Are you using it as a camper or a panel van?

If the former, I would panel between the metal - looks nicer.
If the latter, keep it as it is, then it's easier to load / unload.

It depends what glue has been used of course. Best to try out various solvents - then work on the van

Will be using it as a camper. Full width bed so not a huge number of units.

I imagine it's a standard upholstery spray adhesive. But no clue what flavour.

Just wasn't sure if anyone had done a similar thing before and could recommend a solvent that didn't attack the paint too severely.

Going to be trial and error I guess.

I've been thinking over this task recently also. I think I am going to do the panels as I think this will feel less box like. but I interested in what everyone thinks.

I have used this stuff before. It works on a number of adhesives. Might be worth a try, and won't damage your paint.

http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/ppc108 ... dp/SA01889

Smosh wrote:I've been thinking over this task recently also. I think I am going to do the panels as I think this will feel less box like. but I interested in what everyone thinks.

I think I'm going to go for panelling the recesses, but it really depends how well the metalwork that will be left showing cleans up.

a1winchester wrote:I have used this stuff before. It works on a number of adhesives. Might be worth a try, and won't damage your paint.

http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/ppc108 ... dp/SA01889

Ah cool, that sounds like it may do the trick. All the solvents I have are a little more hardcore. I'll get some on order.

I did mine this summer with in fill panels individually carpeted and then fitted into frame, which was also carpeted. really pleased with how it came out, build thread is here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=153991 if you're interested

Cheers,

MM

Acetone maybe but Eddingtons
Stickystuff remover is fantastic and every household should have some !

https://www.buysend.com/Product/Details ... oCQb_w_wcB" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Most of it will be the foam off the back of the carpet I expect so scrape first.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Thanks MM I'll have a read of that thread now!

Cheers Harry, I've ordered some of the sticky stuff remover from farnell sonif that doesn't work Eddingtons is next on the list.

Lighter fuel works well too. In a well ventilated area of course

mm289 wrote:I did mine this summer with in fill panels individually carpeted and then fitted into frame, which was also carpeted. really pleased with how it came out, build thread is here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=153991 if you're interested

Cheers,

MM

HI there m8
Really nice job.

Just looking at doing the ceiling in mine using the same method, ie with ply sheet (much nicer and cheaper than a standard head lining!!)

I just wanted if you dont mind to pick your brains on how you secured it to the roof so well.
I can see you used the batons in the middle of the roof but how did you fix the edges nice and tight? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks m8

@crazymilk

This will probably sound better planned than it really was but anyway

The roof had been ply lined before and was aweful as they had tried to secure it to the metal cross rails at the B,C & D posts with no bracing between. The problem with that is the roof has to bow in two directions, side to side and front to back. Also with no bracing between these cross rails the ply was too flexible.

So the idea with the placement of my battens was to smooth out the front to back curve and add reinforcement between the cross rails. The battens are glued to the roof at each end but also have a piece of wood inserted in the middle to fill the gap between the batten (straight) and the roof (curved). This together with getting the ends of the batten to be pretty flush to the cross rails means the front to rear curve is minimal.

So why is that important? Well, if you get it pretty straight front to rear then you can pull the ply up into the roof with the fixings/screws into the cross rails and it will create the side to side curvature in a nice tidy bow as it is only bending in one axis. This in turn meant, by cutting the width to the right size I didn't need any fixings on the side of the ply roof lining.

The ply is actually held up by 9 screws into the cross rails and the tension of the bow holds it tight against the side members of the roof

This was helped by getting the shape down the sides "just right", noting for example that it narrows as you go from the C to D pillars, but if you do this carefully it will stay put and be secure just with the screws into the roof bracing.

Hope that makes sense, any Q's let me know

Cheers,

MM

Great stuff, thanks m8. This is very helpful.

I think I get ya, so basically the batons ensure the shape/curve of the ply stays uniform and fits up against the sides nice and tight?

Thanks again

Yep, maintains the front to rear shape as pretty much flat so when you "pull it up" into the roof the side to side bow pulls the edges nice and tight into the side/roof in on the van.

Cheers,

MM