Club 80-90 Forums

Following on from repairing the lock barrel on my sliding door https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=154879" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I thought I'd post some pics which might be useful to someone doing the same for a cab door lock barrel.

This was the passenger door and wasn't particularly secure. I could even open the lock with a penny is was so bad!

So removing the door handle and cleaning up behind the barrel you'll find a hole on either side which contains a rolled pin. You can see the position shown by the screwdriver below:



You just need to knock it out and you can separate the parts taking care when removing the return spring. You can see the parts below.



You can see that the lock barrel is absolutely filthy. When I took it apart is was totally clogged up with dirt. I think this emphasises the fact that you shouldn't squirt WD40 in your locks as it attracts the dirt and it just builds up over the years making the lock operate very badly.

Once I'd cleaned up the lock and inspected the parts, there was't any significant wear in the parts. The only reason it didn't work was that it was bunged up with dirt held together with WD40 and whatever else has been used to lubricate it over the years.

I soaked the barrel in white spirits and replaced the wafers and springs with new items as I couldn't be bothered to clean up all those small parts.

After assembly and a small amount of graphite lubricant I had another nicely working lock barrel. See the linked issue above for details on re-keying it.



So you can then insert the lock barrel back into the handle which of course was cleaned up before hand. Next you need to put the return spring into place as shown in the photo below:



Take care when putting the spring in place as when I did it, it pinged across my workshop when I tried to take a photograph and it took me 1/2 hour to find it again! As soon as the spring is in place and hooked over that lip, get the lock lever in place.



You just need to knock the roll pin back in place to hold it all together.

End result is a lock which can only be operated by MY key and not any old bit of metal you can stick in the lock!

Nicely done, thanks

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Unfortunately its not always easy to locate the pin on an old door handle and even where you can, corrosion is often so advanced, the body is significantly weakened and it can fall apart with only a modicum of pressure needed to work the pin out.

The crucial thing (forgetting the wafers) is the lock body into which the barrel fits. Wear over the years from the action of the wafers has a massive impact on the effectiveness and longevity of the lock so very important to clean handle thoroughly and inspect - ideally with a gauge. Negating that bit means a greater number of keys will fit the same lock. That said, even a basic rebuild can get a few more years out of a worn lock although not as positive as a completely new one.