Club 80-90 Forums

1983 DG 1.9 Pierburg 2E3. I thought I had got things just about running nicely back in the Spring. Carb refirbished, new rotor , dist`cap, ignition cables, advance/retard fitting (which was defective) ,sparkplugs and all vacuum pipes including brake servo. Last but not least fuel tank removed and cleaned out, here had been the source of the main problem. Things running good, except:-
Starts perfectly every time, first turn of the start motor. Runs on fast idle as choke starts to warm up. Then, after a couple of minutes of fast idle it will cut out when I take my foot off the gas to slow down or stop at traffic lights. It starts again directly but I have to feather the gas to keep it going while standing still.
Then, after driving for about 5 minutes she will tick over just fine, no problems with the idle whatsoever.
Seems to be a problem somewhere only between "cold" and "warm" motor temp. I wonder if this could be mixture related, if the mixture is too "weak" to tickover on half choke but runs on full choke and with the engine fully warmed up? Does the Oracle have any ideas for me to brood on before I get my hands dirty again?

Check the electric manifold heater under the manifold is working first.

Electric manifold heater? Didn`t know I had one. Must check.

I forgot to mention that the idle cut off valve is "suspect" as there is a tendency for the engine to "run on" a little after turning off ignition. It does "klick" though when I connect 12v so I presume it to be working.
Maybe the "running on" is another signe of weak mixture? I thought to check the colour of the plugs but I have no great experience there.

The run on makes me think the ignition timing is out. That may explain why your idle isnt working properly.

Manifold heater seems to be O.K. but timing was out !! This has been adjusted. Motor now seems to run more evenly but still wants to cut out when the choke flap first opens and untill the engine is really warm. And a tendency to want to "run on" remains.
A queer thing with the idle cut off valve, with the engine really warm and ticking over nicely I removed the 12v connection to the Idle cut off valve expecting the engine to stop, but nothing happened at all, not even a hickup! Is this as it should be?

My van still stalls between cold and hot in winter. The run on suggests the timing is still incorrect but then you say the idle cut out is suspect. Timing should be 10btdc .

Consider buying yourself a timing gun. One with advance setting. They're not too expensive for a Gunson one. I got one and also picked up a rev counter clock from Vanfest and a Color tune kit and now I set my own timing.

If the van is at idle then the engibe should stop when you pull the cable off the idle cut out! That explains the run on!

I have timing gun. I set timing according to Haynes. Rev counter would be good to have . Maybe the cut off Solenoid is stuck in the "on" position? Will look around for a spare. Trouble is they cost a bit. Thanks for the advice.

The Color Tune kit looks interesting. Can it be used on the DG Wasserboxer ?

Worleyboy wrote:The Color Tune kit looks interesting. Can it be used on the DG Wasserboxer ?

mixture check must be done by a gas analyser

Worleyboy wrote: A queer thing with the idle cut off valve, with the engine really warm and ticking over nicely I removed the 12v connection to the Idle cut off valve expecting the engine to stop, but nothing happened at all, not even a hickup! Is this as it should be?

That's not right.
It should stop the engine.

it was the valve you disconnected and not the carb heater?

kevtherev wrote: That's not right.
It should stop the engine.

it was the valve you disconnected and not the carb heater?

^ Test the idle cut off with a battery to see if the pin moves. If it's not cutting off fuel then it may be jammed open. https://youtu.be/U8qZwRgHX4A?t=37m29s" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Kev, why must it be tested by a gas analyser? I know the Colour Tune is not as accurate but at least it indicates when the mixture is in the correct range and therefore great for DIY setting up. I agree the analyser should be used for fine tuning but that's not a DIY tool we can afford!!

I have a Gunson gastester which can be used to check co levels at idle, it's £100 so affordable IMO.

You can only adjust idle mixture.

Yes Kev, it was definitly the cut off solenoid I dissconnected and it kept running without even a bleep. I've had the valve out now and its in good nick, except for the rubber gasket, and works as it should when current is applied.
I have just looked at a sparkplug and its a mirror image of the picture in the back of Haynes for "engine in good condition". The refusal to tickover between "fast idle" and "hot" engine is just irritating.