Club 80-90 Forums

Has anyone carried out an upgrade for theyre dash lights? My standard bulbs are so dim that I can't read my clocks going under trees etc, I'm looking for a direct led swap if possible.

Turn the dimmer switch up full! Honestly though, standard bulbs are plenty bright enough for me. (What is the meaning of "going under trees"?) Are you getting full voltage to them?

Maybe my dash voltage is low but the standard bulbs are pretty weak, found these on cvc:
http://campervanculture.com/shop/t3-das ... warm-white" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A possible solution?

I just bought 10mm green LEDs (Maplins - 89p I think), suitable resistors and they come on day or night when ignition is in first position. Perfect for the under-trees prob. The hole on the bulb cowl is just big enough to take them. They run independently of wiring in clocks - easier in long run and a lot more reliable. OK its not exactly plug and play but a hell of a lot cheaper than some of the alternatives. Recently bought some 10mm colour changing ones - might try those soon

Blob of hot glue stopped them from moving but they were such a neat fit, it wasn't really needed in hindsight. White bulbs a bit harsh for my eyes.

Mod-happy Covkid, you know the score

I got a set of white led direct replacements from brick parts on eBay.
Work a treat and plug and play.
Tim

Nice work Ralph, don't suppose you have a write on how you fitted these?

No but I remember mentioning the resistor values I used. Its a really simple circuit. Will have a hunt.

Have a nose at these while I'm looking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7EelwL5IlA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Found it. I used 2 x 390 ohm resistors, two 10mm green LEDs. Solder a resistor to one leg of LED then wire them in parallel to a point on your dash or fusebox that is only live when ignition is in first position. I think I filed light cowl hole very slightly so LED pushed straight in. Doesn't need much. You could maybe use 8mm LED I suppose and dab of hot glue. Light is excellent to be honest. I do know what you mean by under trees (tunnels too). Resistors I chose don't drive LEDs at all hard so they'll outlive camper I should think. Thats why I did it that way - no chance of dodgy bulb connector and easy project. If LED doesn't light, switch it around. They only work one way but won't blow if incorrectly wired.

I actually removed dimmer switch (not needed with LEDs) and fitted a small 'chicken switch' so I can turn rad fan on if I'm concerned about temperature gauge. Most reassuring I can tell you.

Very nice, many thanks for this info, will give it a go

I know its a bit more involved but its pretty bulletproof and the light is really really nice. You'll see what I mean once you've done it. They draw so little you could use thin speaker wire to run em. I made a rule a few years ago that what I'd call low-level running lights should all be LED by default. That way if you ever get stranded and have to leave basic lights on for safety, you could run them for over 48 hours without flattening battery. Good rule to follow I think. If you use those LEDs instead of SMD ones, you wouldn't even notice the draw on the battery and they can be on during the day too - which is where you want them.