Club 80-90 Forums

Hi

I'm going to redo the lining of the camper as it's looking a bit tatty and is falling apart a bit.

Not sure what to use to stick it up with, seen this stuff on ebay, trimfix spray adhesive (temp to 70oC).

Anyone used it ? Is there any better stuff to use to stick the lining on with ?


Cheers,

Mark

Spray adhesive avalable at B&Q around £5 for a lrage tin, it`s spray contact adhesive, sticks well.

bear in mind the ammount of fumes in a confined space! could be worth getting a contact adhesive in a tim and rollering it on to the roof and then to the carpet out side the van, you should be able to get it done a bit quicker that way without passing out!

Have done both, spray is def best. Heat buildup is only an issue in a tintop i've found. Best place to get spray glue is from asbestos removal supply companies. Google smh products, contamination control services or thermac hire. They do own branded stuff which is effectively just other peoples stuff with their label over the top. If you are determined then order heat resistant glue from woolies for trim, great stuff but about 20 litre.

I am in the process of trying to remove the stuff with industrial solvents. Not an easy job. Thank god for my respirator!

AVA leisure did do a complete front to rear roof kit for £70 mark incl bars if thats any good to anyone?

On the subject of removing old contact adhesive, I did a huge refurb on a diesel rail car (3 car unit) some time back, and had to remove LOTS of contact adhesive from where formica had been glued onto large bulkheads, covering up the original formica with some `orrid `70`s orange stuff (modernisation init). Took me days to get the orange stuff off, leaving the original panels covered in dried-on contact glue.

The best way I found was to SOAK it with cellulose thinners, and keep soaking it until it went sticky, then wipe off and keep using more thinners and more clean rags until it wiped clean. Used easily 10 gallons of thinners, the stink was horrendous

Westy.Club.Joker wrote:The best way I found was to SOAK it with cellulose thinners, and keep soaking it until it went sticky, then wipe off and keep using more thinners and more clean rags until it wiped clean. Used easily 10 gallons of thinners, the stink was horrendous

*horrible memories of last winter*
i had to do this on Gina cause some muppet who used to own her thought shag-pile carpet looked good all up the walls , it were frelling freezing so i had to have the door shut. Best high i ever had - apart from a few back in the day
had a couple of lucky escapes where i nearly lit a rollie without thinking

Cheers for the replies

If i don't have a tin top do i still need the high temp stuff ?

Just started pulling some of the old stuff off .....Ever wish you never started something !

Where can i get some of the velvety stuff that lines the high top ? Seen some stuff i thought would do, but now i have the old lining off it seems a bit thicker that what i was looking at

Thanks

There is a bloke on Ebay who sells the correct roof-lining cloth, he has a light grey one which I would think would look good. Someone asked about this before Xmas, poss. Kathyshack, can`t remember who the seller was, try a search on the forum for "roof lining"

[quote="futurecut] Heat buildup is only an issue in a tintop [/quote]


The heat buildup is tremendous in a high top unless the roof vent is open.There will always be times when the camper will be parked up in summer without the roof vent open.

mark206000 wrote: If i don't have a tin top do i still need the high temp stuff ?

Yes, get the high temp stuff. If you don't, when it gets really hot in your camper the newly fitted material will start to peel or sag.

OK, maybe I can help a bit here as an adhesive chemist.

Better off getting a water based contact adhesive that a solvent based one if you can. Water based contact works the same as solvented contact but with no solvent smell. Seriousley, if working in a confined space like a van, solvented adhesive may be quick, easy and cheap, but does your lungs in if you breathe it for long enough without passing out, although you will probably be quite happy about the situation for a while before you throw up
Bostik do a water based contact, although I don't work for them.

To get old solvented glue off, soaking it with thinners will work as someone said, but again the toxicity is high. I got some old solvented adhesive off the rubber cab mats in my van by using a high pressure washer and a scrubbing brush soaked in white low odour white spirit.
Not ideal but maybe a little less pongy than thinners.

Thing aboput glue is, you put it on wanting it to stick, and then when you ant to get it off a few years later guess what ? It's stuck on

Trust me... I've done it...

If the hight top isn't ply-lined - line it! (and insulate)

Never even think of using spray adhesive... it'll cost you a fortune and is messy... and doesn't stick either. Contact adhesives don't give you any room for manouevre, whether they are water or solvent based.

Use thin corded carpet (available at all carpet shops or, if there's an exhibition centre near you, you can often scrounge offcuts - exhibition stand carpets are perfect)

Stick the carpet to the ply with flooring adhesive from Screwfix.

Worked for me...

i cant see how you can do the job without using some sort of board anyway, you cant stick carpet straight on insulation, and its just plain stupid not to insulate the roof.......

spray on glue is ok if you can overlap at the back, its no good otherwise, it just falls off.......

Contact adhesives do give you room for manouvre.
IF you buy the contact adhesive that has the right amount of open time for your application.
Open time is the time that the adhesive remains workable before the initial grab takes place.
Water based contact adhesives are available on the market with open times up to twenty or thirty minutes, allowing plenty of time to slide components into place.