Club 80-90 Forums

What is the procedure for changing engine mounts 1.9 petrol i was getting clutch judder after a long run in first and reverse I've changed gearbox mount for poly and that has had a vast improvement but still got the slightest judder so gonna try changing engine mounts see if that does the trick

Support the engine with a jack (use a good piece of would to spread the load) undo the mounts, take off the 4 chassis bolts. you will need one of these (13mm) to get to the top mounting nuts, they are a bit awkward.



Martin

I have never managed to get to all the bolts without taking the silencer off.

Theclash wrote: but still got the slightest judder so gonna try changing engine mounts see if that does the trick

I would look at the clutch, worn engine mounts don't cause judder they only exaggerate it.

I agree ^^^^ but using a jack under the engine to push the engine upwards will reveal any mounts that have become detached (metal separated from the rubber)


Martin

Oil from a leaky crankshaft seal will cause judder.
Is the bell housing wet at the bottom by the drain hole?

Thanks for all replies and suggestions guys
Changing the clutch was a last resort as it works as it should until after a long run I get the judder, changing the gearbox mount as made a massive difference although judder still there but not as bad. No oil leaks whatsoever because that was my first thought no clutch slip either., for the cost of engine mounts I thought I would give it a go the gearbox mount looked original so I suspect engine mounts to be the same.
Can the mounts be swapped without removing the moustache shaped engine bearer or does it need to be unbolted and lowered and does exhaust need removing

Moustache has to come off but shouldn't be any need to remove exhaust. Just support the engine.

On mine, all three bolts that fasten carrier to engine had sheared off (yup, all three) so the only thing holding engine in was bottom water pipe sitting on engine carrier! It was only the eventual water leak that drew my attention to it - that and the fan belt which was being worn away by the carrier.

The other thing that will cause judder is one (or more) loose bolts between gearbox and engine.

Theclash wrote:... it works as it should until after a long run I get the judder...

Isn't that the giveaway symptom of oil contamination? I had this in a previous car - the oil leak was small enough that using the clutch regularly during normal driving round town was enough to burn off the oil, but after a long time sitting in one gear the clutch became covered in oil, causing it to judder. A few gear changes later it would be back to normal.

itchyfeet wrote:I have never managed to get to all the bolts without taking the silencer off.

Ah yes silly me I'm thinking taking the cradle off also when getting to oil pump, just for mounts I guess cradle stays on.

Typically clutch judder symptom is often caused by 'oil contamination' on the friction plate....always seemed a bit weird that oil wouldn't just cause slipping but its correct: oil contamination causes grabbing and releasing better known as clutch judder.
Possible rear main oil seal, gearbox input shaft or clutch slave cylinder leak.
Still...check the engine mountings.

Martin

Thanks again for all the input
Think my plan off attack now is to soldier on till the end of camping season then drop gearbox in new year change seal and clutch
Will check mounts when I next get chance and probably do them at same time as clutch

Theclash wrote:Thanks again for all the input
Think my plan off attack now is to soldier on till the end of camping season then drop gearbox in new year change seal and clutch
Will check mounts when I next get chance and probably do them at same time as clutch

OK
Crank seals wear out quicker if the end float on the crankshaft is not in spec

Hi Kev
I'm hoping end float is ok but will check it when I do the job
The engine was new and fitted at vw dealership 10 years ago and has only done 20,000 in that time
It runs like new no oil leaks no starting problems