Club 80-90 Forums

123-jn wrote:It's bream a while But I think I am beginning to yearn after another reliable transhite!!! or even an unreliable mercedes sprinter. If this engine doesn't run with a new valve spring I will ditch it for a PSA diesel!!!

Cods wallop

For a minute I thought you meant it was a load of pollocks , but really I am very ha wrass ed about it. Luckily I minnow its bed time where I can loach of to sleep. But seriously my fraud ........ and my LDV ...... never gave me any trouble

Well I have an answer, one broken valve spring is enough to stop your waterboxer running even if the small one is still ok. I made a very Heath Robinson device out of a metal bar bolted across the rocker studs with a long bolt sticking out of it going through a long ash batton on which I attached an l shape fashioned fork to compress the spring when pulling on the ash batton. It worked rather well with 3m of washing line inside the cylinder crushed up to TDC to stop the valve moving. The old spring appears to have sheared off in the middle. I can't see any obvious reason why? Anyway, back together with a nice big spark from the new coil and she runs, now i''M TOO SCARED TO TAKE HER OUT INCASE SHE BREAKS SOMETHING ELSE!!! I can't see anyreason why the 2.1 cam would be any harder on the valve springs. The 1.9 they came off was also hydraulic although it was an early 1.9.

great idea with washing line in the cylinder
never would haves thought of that

must be a relief to be able to drive it finally.

I'm bored reading this, time to watch some late night prawn.

well I have now been out for a run, as with these lifters so far it always starts with a nasty knock/rattle, You dare not throttle up hard as it sounds too nasty. After about 5 miles it quietens down to some extent but the lifter noise is still there, so which one is it?
Well I have a popping in the exhaust at tickover so perhaps it is an exhaust lifter? I think I need to check all the exhaust bolts for tightness and then use the stethoscope to see if I can pick which downpipe the popping is in!!! Then perhaps check the lifter setting and maybe substitute it for one out of the 1.9 engine an see if it makes a difference. I really hate these lifters!!! I need to do a compression test but by the time I have got the plugs out and substituted the compression tester some of the lifters are starting to drain down Then I get a bad reading.
I may also try retarding the timing a bit that might stop the popping but Ive got it at 10 btdc with vacuum disconnected on a DG distributor (its a DJ engine) . When I reconnect the vacuum at 800rpm the marks move round to at least 17btdc ?
I'm sure with decent lifters I would not have all this trouble (Kolbenschmidt from BW I must check how many others have rung them up to complain?)
Then there is the worry that one valve spring has broken was it just bad luck or could there be more?

Sorry you are bored What 2do, feel free to pop over to Worcestershire and help me get this engine to run properly.

what2do wrote:I'm bored reading this, time to watch some late night prawn.

If the engine runs fine one second, then popping and banging the next, is the dizzy fully down into mesh on the drive? Or if you had the drive gear out, did you refit the two washers under it on reassembly? Just a thought...

What oil are you using?

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really need to change those tappets before you can go on.
if they drain down should be easy to find which ones
if you try and preload there will be no resistance.
I'm sure you can get replacements sent, you have telescopic tubes so not too bad

I did however discover on my late van one pushrod would not slide out without removing stuff, may be others too I only tried one.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:

what2do wrote:I'm bored reading this, time to watch some late night prawn.

Thanks obg, sometimes the obvious isn't.......obvious!

Just a thought, I wonder if it's possible for the clip to come off a tappet and it still just about function.

I have two tappets pulled from two different engines with a clip partially out but still holding.
Perhaps if run while drained the clip can ping half off, or right off.

Worrying me now because I ran my replacement engine with drained down tappets because I was too lazy to refill them

123-jn wrote: These tappets have the usual spring in the base and then the cup/piston with the ball valve in, on the top of which sits a small black washer with a broken circle pattern pressed in on both sides, one side a bigger diameter pressed pattern than the other. After this the pushrod cup goes in then the clip. When I dismantled them to charge with oil some of them had the black washer a different way up, Having looked at it it looked like it would perform the same task either way round but perhaps it is critical? Does anyone know? Most of them had the smaller horseshoe pattern facing the pushrod cup, but some it was the bigger horseshoe pattern? If there is no problem either way round then these tappets are just as ******** as the last set which were like the old vw style from heritage.

Thats interesting, just took an old one of mine appart and it looks like in bentley, this black washer your are describing is a different desgn, sounds like the ones in Ratwell oil metering disc.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

THat is interesting , those ones look just like mine. Had another drive tonight, She started lumpy, nasty lifter rattle again, after about 2 miles it sort of went a bit but valve train still noisy. Another readjustment just to make sure seems to be required. Also she is running alot hotter than ever before, I wonder if I have an airlock somewhere.

I've been following this discussion with some interest, since I've also got a set of new Kolbenschmidt lifters ready to go into my engine. So this evening I dismantled one to compare it to one of the originals that I took from the 2.1 when I dismantled it. They're clearly quite different. Apart from the different construction, I'd say there's a difference in the assembled length - i.e. the distance from the face that rides on the cam lobes to the cup that the pushrod sits in. The new ones seem to be 1-2mm longer.

I was under the impression that these Kolbenschmidt lifters were made by the OEM and were effectively identical to what would have been in the engine from new. That doesn't seem to be the case after all. It would be interesting to get Brickwerks' expert opinion.

Some photos - old one at the top: