Club 80-90 Forums

Hi everyone, I'm trying to source a replacement terminal for the black and red starter trigger wire as it leaves the fusebox. It is a late fusebox and the connector in question is D24 in the haynes manual. I need to replace the trigger wire and can't reuse the female terminal already connected to the cable as it snapped (I wouldn't wan't to reuse it anyway but I now have no choice!).

Just to clarify, it is a female socket type of connector that slots on the thicker pin in the fuse box. It is locking and sits inside a plastic connector block.

Any help would be tremendous! Thanks so much,

Nick

Do you mean this sort of thing http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... -insulated" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have doubts if you could but the terminals, you could try giving Wagonbuild a call, they have quite a few looms and may be able to sell you the whole connector/ loom where you could patch it in.

http://www.ekmpowershop16.com/ekmps/sho ... s-54-c.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the replies. Jeff, unfortunately it's not a spade connector - wish it were! Thanks for the suggestion itchyfeet, if I can't source anything I'll try them. I might grad a couple of non locking female bullet terminals and try and secure it to the block so it doesn't pop off.

Another thought/ question I had is - what would happen if I ran a line straight from the ignition switch to the starter with an inline fuse. Presumably this would crank the starter, but if I by-pass the fuse box, will I be depriving other components of electricity? To be clear, if there is no current running from the ignition switch along the black and red cable, apart from the starter trigger, is there anything else that would stop working?

Thanks for any advice!

Nick

Put up a pic of what connector you are on about - isn't it just a terminal in a plastic housing? Usually just a case of replacing the terminal inside.

Yes you could join the 6mm2 red/black that goes from D24 to the 4mm2 Red black from ignition switch to B8
You can still leave the connection to B8, can't see anything standard that needs it but might as well leave it connected to fusebox.
It would want to be a good connection and well insulated but it could be done behind fuse box.

Don't worry about fuses there are none in the starter circuit, thats why you need good insulation.

Thanks for the replies. Here is a pic

It's just the white connector in the back of the fuse box, and yes I'd like to just replace the terminal inside! Thanks itchyfeet, at least I know I have another option!

If you could buy the terminal they usually need a special crimp tool which are very expensive.
Best see if you can buy a loom cut and remove the crimp with a few inches of wire and join.
Even then you usually need a special tool to remove crimps from housings.

You will have to wait till tomorrow - if I get a chance I will take a look and see, it seems odd to me that they are not removable as the plastic would not be moulded around the terminals. If they can be inserted they can be removed and replaced! Looks like a pretty standard housing.

Thanks again for the help. I removed the terminal from the plastic block fine - a tiny screwdriver to depress the tang on either side worked fine. However as the terminal was crimped to the cable so well I had no chance of taking it off! Basically I just want to replace it and put the new one on the new cable I have then stick it back in the plastic connector!

Just for information, I am replacing the trigger wire from the fuse box to the starter as I have an intermittent fault - 99 times out of a hundred I turn the key and nothing happens! I have tested everything to death, the starter works fine, the ignition switch seems to be working, and when I turn the key I get power at the connection in question. What I don't get is any juice arriving at the starter end of the trigger wire. I don't know if the cable is perished or what, but somewhere between the fusebox and the starter I lose power! It's been a problem for sometime so I just wanted to get it finished!

Thanks a lot,

Nick

Put up a pic of the terminal that you need - I will most probably have a suitable one in my supply of around 1000 various types! Just solder the new one, no need for crimping tools. ( every time I see crimping I think of The Mighty Boosh and their song )

Seems to me most likely to fail at the starter end, vibration, heat etc. I would chop a few inches off the cable at the starter and check the voltage there. If the exposed copper strands are black you need to go back until they are shiny. If voltage OK then replace the end, if still no joy then think about replacing whole cable.

Sorry missed the bit at the beginning about snapped connector...

That starter end is very vulnerable - I soldered a wire directly to the spade terminal on the solenoid, sealed it and brought the wire into the engine bay to a relay. Never had a failure since - I had intermittent connection all the time due to corrosion building up which it seemed to do quite quickly. I have seen plenty of blackened strands throughout the exposed wiring at the rear end.

This is the reason why I crimp and solder on new cables where possible. The solder offers a second level of protection, particularly in exposed areas.