Club 80-90 Forums

Sunday fun day hopefully! Ive got the rebuild kit ready, photo'd the carb from all angles, tagged and labelled connections and have a nice clear space on the work bench. I've read thread after thread (thanks Itchyfeet and Kevtherev) and am ready to go.

Any last minute pearls of wisdom from carb rebuild Masters greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Grasshopper

Rags in holes
DO NOT LOOSE ANY WASHERS

Where do the washers fit on IF?

Sir Brixalot wrote:Where do the washers fir on IF?

eh?

fit on. I found two when I took top of the carb off. Wonder if I dropped one

I hope not, a single washer can be deadly to your engine if dropped into the carb or inlet manufold.
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Nothing I can do about it now so not going to worry. I always lifted the carb straight and only inspected outside the engine bay.

On mine there were three washers under the nuts holding the carb on, I threw them away too risky, just use nuts.

If it were my van and I thought I lost a washer I would take the inlet manufold off and see if it's sitting in there, once it's in the engine it's head off time.

Done that one. The rebuilt engine before this seized near Bodiam castle. Andrew found a washer wedged in there. Done a few hundred miles since I had the carb off this time. The AA guy also had it off. I'll look to be on the safe side.

Gents, is it possible to remove the float needle valve without knocking out the retaining pin and removing the float itself? there looks to be a round cutaway at the back of the float bracket that might allow for the brass cap of the needle to be pushed over with a screwdriver and the float eased up. I don't want to force and break something.

Btw the float retaining pin is pretty snug.

Thanks

Not as far as I know

I used a pop rivet in a socket and handle then tap out the pin with a small hammer.
It won't be hard.


more pierburg porn here...
http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/paul_ ... ierburg2e3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the great tip. Pin out in seconds.

Bit better than my method-a needle and a hammer!

Almost 3 decades of clag removed, ozone layer a bit thinner over Exeter right now. I knew the choke pull down vacuum was kaput, also discovered the diaphram in the other vacuum unit
had gone and waiting for replacement to be delivered before refitting the carb.

Aside from needing a few more revs when pulling away, I thought the van was running pretty well (MOT passed last week) So what is the downside of driving with both the vacuum units nonfunctional?
Poor mpg?

Thanks

lack of power
choke pull down only affects choke
second barrel will never open if the vacuum units broken, prepare for warp speed