Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

I think I need to adjust the valves on my 2L CU engine. Its been a while since I have done this, can anyone point me in the direction how to guide or video?

Found this online and looks about right? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thxE4Sroxm0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks

Matt

CUs have hydraulic tappets, so there's no valve adjustment, other than the initial setting of the lifters/tappets when you install them.

If it sounds "tappety", then one of them has gone south. Oddly, have dealt with exactly this today, with one of mine deciding it was going to make a row. Easily fixed due to the engine's design, and GSF actually had one on the shelf locally, so 2 hours start to finish (including cool down!).

You need to read this and understand it.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Been reading. I'm never going to understand all of that to be honest. But it does say however that engines codes with GE and CV are identified as having hydraulic lifters?

kevtherev wrote:You need to read this and understand it.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Your CU has hydraulic lifters from the factory.
Did you read about the adjustment procedure?

Yep and i got as far as step one... this really isnt for novices.

kevtherev wrote:Your CU has hydraulic lifters from the factory.
Did you read about the adjustment procedure?

Ok
So is the engine tappety tappety, tickety tickety or just tack tack tack tack......?

In the link it reminds owners of the need for regular oil changes.
Every 3000 miles or 6 months.
Use mineral 15w 40 or 20w 50.
Is this the case with your engine?

Apologies I didn't want to dismiss the link you sent me, Im sure all the answers are in there but Im really not at that level to understand it. I still cant tell by looking at the engine whether it does have hydraulic lifters or not. I can only go by what the engine code is, and even like the article say you cannot take anything for granted with these engines.

Identification:

So how can you tell that you've got them? There is no guaranteed way to know unless you examine the lifters themselves (even if you happen to be the original owner because mechanics can do evil things to engines to get them out of the shop).

Here are some clues to look for in order to help you determine if you have hydraulic lifters:

The engine case number begins with GE (bus) or CV (Vanagon).
The fan shroud has a similarly prefixed number.
There is a sticker on the fan shroud indicating zero lash.
The case lacks a bolt with a large 13mm triple square head on the right side of the case between the push rod tubes.
The rocker arms are separated by a wavy spacer washer instead of a spring.
The push rods are one piece steel instead of a large aluminum tube with small steel tips.

Anyway back to noises. Yesterday I swapped out the leads and changed the spark plugs. The timing has been set few weeks ago so I haven't adjusted that. Oil level is good. New dizzy cap. And now it sounds a lot better. I will see how it sounds after a run.

I did notice that the spark plugs looked a bit black. Any ideas on what tubes I should be running in Twin ICT 34's ? I did buy them pre-jetted from eurocarb but it does look like they are running rich. Or maybe its the cheaper fuel regulator its running.

Sorry to digress.

kevtherev wrote:Ok
So is the engine tappety tappety, tickety tickety or just tack tack tack tack......