Club 80-90 Forums

For the sake of a few quid and because they always let go without warning, cracks can appear within days on the new ones (old stock seem to last far far longer)
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 9#p8146039" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Particularly important for the daily drivers!

Ich fahre einen Bulli. Ich hilfe mir selbst...meistens!

Yep, agree with that Ian - my last new one lasted a year before leaking through a fracture. Replaced it with the one that had been there since the van was built thinking I was being preventative.

300CE wrote:Yep, agree with that Ian - my last new one lasted a year before leaking through a fracture. Replaced it with the one that had been there since the van was built thinking I was being preventative.

Another reason not to throw old parts away.

I bought a Meyle brand replacement for an original looking header tank which had been accidentally damaged. My mate 'tested' it, ie blew into the tank with the cap on and said the crack hadn't fully gone through the skin. Should I hang onto this as I'd read earlier posts on questionable lifespan of the replacements....any opinions on the quality of Meyle parts?

itchyfeet wrote:

300CE wrote:Yep, agree with that Ian - my last new one lasted a year before leaking through a fracture. Replaced it with the one that had been there since the van was built thinking I was being preventative.

Another reason not to throw old parts away.

I was young and naive then Paul

I bought Meyle hydraulic clutch master and slave, the seal on the master to the flexi pipe leaked ALL of the fluid out, ran down and under the carpet underlay and out of the van via the cab door step. The slave cylinder boot was the wrong size and torn because it was forced on. I didnt know what brand i was getting when ordering and thought they were going to be good quality because they were not cheap.

I suspect the damage is more likely where water temperatures and/or pressure have exceeded specs. Weak coolant can cause water to boil before it should too. Recently fixed a leak from pipe below pulleywheel and now my temperature sits barely halfway to the midpoint on gauge whereas before it tended to sit halfway and above most of the time. It only needs a tiny leak somewhere to create that scenario. Plastics that get hot then get freezing cold (in Winter) will invariably suffer as well.

Mind you, I should add, my GSF one has been on 3 years. Old one (original) was fine but impossible to clean so I swapped it out.

Header tanks tend to be cheaper than most hoses so maybe its no bad thing to be the sacrificial element - perhaps.

I do agree that a small persistant leak can result in an air/steam pocket in the header tank and this could well shorten the life of them.
There was no significant loss of coolant up until this point btw.
This one failed just as I returned home after a morning running the kids around.
No spare to hand on a Saturday = no car until mid week.

And check your dalek cap for quacking (not cracking)

As for the quality, well the 2004 one appears better made than the 2010 item. Maybe JP can do better if asked?

Ich fahre einen Bulli. Ich hilfe mir selbst...meistens!

The alternative is fitting a universal aluminium one but my guess is it would simply create a problem elsewhere that is even harder to put right. Main thing is to get cooling system in first class order. Sadly, most are not even if vehicle seems to run fine. Probs can be very hard to spot too.

On the subject of caps, as my system is now in tip top order and has a proper cap fitted, I'm going to swap the cap out for a brand new but cheaper cap that doesn't actually quack and run some tests. I'm not entirely convinced that the quack test is a wholly reliable way to check whether a cap functions correctly when engine is up to temperature. Will video it though

Good explanation for how the two tanks work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPKaFcOwemI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Surly if the cap is correct the system should not over pressure, and the tank will not split.

With a faulty cap, normally the end result is under rather than over pressure. The greatest damage is usually caused by lack of pressure due to a small leak via hoses, pipes, worn pump, heads or rad and the water (and engine) gets hotter earlier. Thats not good for anything. Certainly if you have to top up fairly frequently there are problems that need sorting pronto.

Having resolved mine, I'm half expecting something else to give. Thats usually the way.

CovKid wrote:Good explanation for how the two tanks work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPKaFcOwemI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good video

Keeping a spare header seems sensible (after all, prices only go up) but a spare cap is even wiser.

For a very long time I've been amassing quality brand spares when they're on offer. Unfortunately I'm often badgered if I've got a spare 'this' or a spare 'that' but its a bit annoying when you've done all the donkey work in terms of striking a deal on them. I am inclined to be obstinate on that score unless its a dire emergency and they'll still have to replace like-for-like. If I can do it, so can they

I got the 'real deal' cap for £7 recently - you try and find one for that price Same with tyres, I buy those WAY before I need them. Buy them when you DO need them and boy will you pay for it.