Club 80-90 Forums

Can someone please tell me how to remove the valve as I need to test it? Currently have a van that doesn't want to go - first breakdown since ownership, hoping for a simple fix!!

it unscrews

As simple as that? Great. Just had a thought, my dg has all of a sudden refused to start on either gas or petrol, is the idle shut off valve required to function properly for the engine to run on gas? Thanks.

No.
Do you have a spark?

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ajsimmo wrote:No.
Do you have a spark?

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Nope. Had my first beakdown on Friday. Called out the RAC and he confirmed that there was no live feed to the coil. He only had time to run a wire from the alternator to the coil, when I turned the key it coughed a few times but wouldn't fire up so he towed me home.

I've since run a wire to the coil and the idle shut off valve (it clicks every time I slip the spade connector on but I've not yet removed it to visually test it) but when turned over the engine didn't splutter/cough at all this time which is bizarre and annoying.

what2do wrote:...(it clicks every time I slip the spade connector on but I've not yet removed it to visually test it)...

If it's clicking I wouldn't bother removing it (because it's not an easy shape to grip and I've heard of instances of it breaking). The clicking sound is the moving part of the valve retracting to open the valve - having tested a couple on the bench I can't see how it could click and still be closed.

Thanks, I was hesitant about removing it just in case it broke in the process. Now wondering why it wouldn't fire up when taking a feed from the alternator...

Up until Friday, it's always started on the button and has run beautifully since AJ tuned it. It's got to be something simple as there haven't been any tell tale signs, rough running or not starting prior to Friday. Later on today, I'll get my other half to turn the key whilst I hold the King lead next to metal and see if there's a spark with the temporary fly leads.

Well apart from checking the usual (spark, fuel delivery) I'd be wondering why there was no live feed to the coil. It wouldn't have run on either fuel without that. Maybe whatever killed that also killed something else - I can't think what though. Does your new feed show 12V when you use the engine block as the earth? If not maybe you've got a bad earth.

I was thinking earth too like the one by the coil on the body.

kevtherev wrote:I was thinking earth too like the one by the coil on the body.

Yes, that one's more likely in fact, given that the idle cut-off clicks (since that earths through the engine). A voltmeter and/or the spark test should show what's going on.

Is LPG switch illuminated with ignition on? If not you won't get either fuel. The lack of ignition live suggests it's possible the switch isn't powered either.

ajsimmo wrote:Is LPG switch illuminated with ignition on? If not you won't get either fuel. The lack of ignition live suggests it's possible the switch isn't powered either.

LPG gauge is illuminated.

It won't be until later before I can do some testing. I'm wondering if it could be something that has come off at the rear of the fuse box as I was behind there the other day when running cables up the A-post. I'll do the simpler engine bay checks first and see where that gets me. Thanks thus far.

other than the ignition live that comes via fusebox ( which you bypassed from alternator) there is only the tacho wire that feeds the lpg unit, no taco pulse no gas.

When you did this bypass test with the AA man it spluttered keep trying.

You have tried switching to petrol but it can take a while to pull through so chuck some petrol down carb.

So as already advised, add 12v to coil and bypass valve from alternator as a temporary connection, chuck some fuel down carb and see if it fires.

If you have another person then check for sparks first by holding king lead close to engine preferably with rubber gloves on (be careful) saves time checking if you have sparks first.

You reported lights on lpg unit were working so you have power to it.

ideally you would have already picked up a spare dizzy, coil and ignition amp to fault find with, much more useful investment than stainless nuts on your suspension, heated rear windows, rear wash wipe, big bumpers, leccy mirrors and all the other bling thats still in your garage unfitted


Also clean earths to body under coil and head.


don't forget your lpg wiring is shocking under cab floor so lpg can't be trusted

Cleaned up earths but still no spark from King lead with original wiring or with the fly lead from the alternator. Tried several times by touching the metal end of the King lead to various earths around the engine bay - zilch. Coil packed up? Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.