Club 80-90 Forums

Hey

I'm having some issues trying to keep my engine cool. Its a 2.3 V6 Cologne from a Ford Granada. I blew a head gasket at Van West the other month after the water pump gasket went and I lost my coolant - £970 later, both head gaskets changed, new water pump and oil switch, cooling system refilled, oil changed.

Ran sweet around town at 30-40 mph on the post rebuild test drive. But as soon as I hit the motorway to go camping last weekend (70 mph) I overcooked the engine. Had to pull over three times to let her cool down and refill the expansion tank. At one point I unscrewed the cap too quick and it went off like bomb - slight scald to my hand and arm but luckily I had sunglasses on so my eyes were ok...

Got home OK two days later by keeping the speed down to 40-45 - the temperature stayed in the middle of the band but I've sprung a coolant leak which needs investigating.

Can anyone recommend a set of twin cooling fans that will improve airflow across the radiator? I don't want to replace the rad for a bigger one as I've heard that can exacerbate the problems with flow rate. And I don't really want to bypass the thermostat either as this will affect operating pressure and pressure relief, so I think increasing fan flow across the rad is my only viable option.

I know the Ford/VW thing is a bit of an unholy alliance but it sounds soooo sweet and pulls really well - and I can't afford a new engine

Many thanks

If a 70 mph gale through the front of the van can't keep the engine cool bigger fans will do nothing end of.
The problem you have can only be caused by 2 things either the coolant isn't flowing enough or the radiator isn't efficient enough.
If the radiator is original then it is most likely partially blocked it's probably best to replace it with the td 44mm core one anyway.
If the radiator is a recent replacement the either you have a duff pump, duff thermostat or the engine is not plumbed in correctly, or of course it's a combination of all of the above.

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spence731 wrote:I'm having some issues trying to keep my engine cool. Its a 2.3 V6 Cologne from a JELLY Granada. I blew a head gasket at Van West the other month after the water pump gasket went and I lost my coolant - £970 later, both head gaskets changed, new water pump and oil switch, cooling system refilled, oil changed.

I've no knowledge of this engine but didn't you check the heads/block for warpage and skim as required ?

MGP wrote: If the radiator is original then it is most likely partially blocked it's probably best to replace it with the td 44mm core one anyway.
If the radiator is a recent replacement the either you have a duff pump, duff thermostat or the engine is not plumbed in correctly, or of course it's a combination of all of the above.

TBH it might be the original radiator so perhaps a 44mm core replacement might do the trick. Its a new pump and thermostat. The other thing I was going to look at tonight was the plumbing, perhaps bigger bore pipework to increase the flow?

syncroandy wrote:
I've no knowledge of this engine but didn't you check the heads/block for warpage and skim as required ?

Yes, both heads were skimmed and original (not replica) gaskets fitted - they were a bitch to find

spence731 wrote:

MGP wrote: If the radiator is original then it is most likely partially blocked it's probably best to replace it with the td 44mm core one anyway.
If the radiator is a recent replacement the either you have a duff pump, duff thermostat or the engine is not plumbed in correctly, or of course it's a combination of all of the above.

TBH it might be the original radiator so perhaps a 44mm core replacement might do the trick. Its a new pump and thermostat. The other thing I was going to look at tonight was the plumbing, perhaps bigger bore pipework to increase the flow?

Is this the one I need, do you know?

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... tartRow=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not sure if that's the one as it says it's for all engines? 44mm core is 2.1 and td specific, having said that the 44mm core would also fit all other engines?

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My 2.6 uses the 2.1 rad core and doesnt overheat.
If the Cologne v6 waterpump is running too slow or isnt a high-flow item than it might beed a smaller pulley to up its rpm, trouble is that at high speed the pump will max out...
Does the engine still have a proper working bypass system? If badly plumbed then all the coolant could be going via the heater circuit: flow will always take the easiest path

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silverbullet wrote:My 2.6 uses the 2.1 rad core and doesnt overheat.
If the Cologne v6 waterpump is running too slow or isnt a high-flow item than it might beed a smaller pulley to up its rpm, trouble is that at high speed the pump will max out...
Does the engine still have a proper working bypass system? If badly plumbed then all the coolant could be going via the heater circuit: flow will always take the easiest path

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Hi Silverbullet

I think the bypass system is working. I know the heater blower isn't working but the cab still warms up when the slider is all the way up to max heat.

My mechanic reckons that there is just too much hose and consequently too much water so he reckons try and reduce hose length and bore around the engine block. He also suggested removing the thermostat but I'm not sure thats as good idea...I also don't want to mess with the pump incase it just cavitates.

Do you have a photo of your hose arrangement, it might give me a better idea?

Thanks

I've read somewhere or was told by someone that a rad from a 3000 TDi range-rover is
the one to have with that engine in a t3

300 Tdi possibly Its such a rare engine swap over here its unlikely to be common knowledge.

The SA has the same coolant pipes as any other T3, they might be more like the td ones but its a minor detail.

No stat is a no-no as you say, there will be no back pressure and the pump will just thrash and cavitate.

Cab gets warm so thatvis good, but did the donor vehicle have a full-flow heater system i.e. mixing hot and cold air, not restricting the hot water flow like a T3 does? I am thinking along the lines of the problems that Subaru convertors get into with the heater shut off and coolant flow problems.

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silverbullet wrote:300 Tdi possibly Its such a rare engine swap over here its unlikely to be common knowledge.

The SA has the same coolant pipes as any other T3, they might be more like the td ones but its a minor detail.

No stat is a no-no as you say, there will be no back pressure and the pump will just thrash and cavitate.

Cab gets warm so thatvis good, but did the donor vehicle have a full-flow heater system i.e. mixing hot and cold air, not restricting the hot water flow like a T3 does? I am thinking along the lines of the problems that Subaru convertors get into with the heater shut off and coolant flow problems.

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Good point mate...in all honesty I don't know. It came out of a 1983 Granada. Might have to do some googling....

How far can you drive it keeping the speed down? If you can drive all day keeping the speed down without it cooking itself then I would say the flow is OK and the radiator can't dissipate the heat

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gary1998 wrote:I've read somewhere or was told by someone that a rad from a 3000 TDi range-rover is
the one to have with that engine in a t3

Thanks Gary, looks like they come either plain or with an intercooler. Not sure how either would fit?

MGP wrote:How far can you drive it keeping the speed down? If you can drive all day keeping the speed down without it cooking itself then I would say the flow is OK and the radiator can't dissipate the heat

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Right...well, last weekend I drove from Gosport to Verwood (about 45 miles). It was fine when I was around town doing 30-40 mph, but when doing 70 down the M27 it began to heat up and by the time I reached the M271 junction it was boiling - probable about 20 miles I guess.

After waiting to cool down and re-filling the expansion tank (took the cap off to aid the cool down) I managed about another 10 miles before it went again, but this time I kept the speed down to 40-45. Another stop about 8 miles on from that.

But, after 2 days of cooling down, I drove the entire 45 miles back to Gosport at around 40-45 mph expecting at any time for the temp to go up...but it stayed completely steady in the middle of the gauge. That was surprising. Haven't driven it since, but my mechanic came over today and tested that the head gaskets are still intact...and they are, thank god.