Club 80-90 Forums

I've just had a mate look at my poorly bus, and he's told me that the fuel pump isn't drawing fuel through. He's recommended an inline pump instead of the standard.


I thought about ordering a longer fuel pump rod and going from 100 to 108 mm ?
Is this a common thing to replace?

What engine have you actually got they fitted a number of different petrol engines.
But if the engine requires 100mm rod then that is the only one to use, replace it if is has worn down below 100mm otherwise fit a new pump or better fit an inline electric pump.

Thanks, I've got a 1.9 wbx petrol....I've ordered an in line pump.
I'm on my 3rd fuel pump so was hoping for an easy fix to get the petrol moving.

Replacement mechanical pumps are pretty poor quality it is more reliable to fit a Facet electric pump.

Seconded. Said this before but I was plagued by random cutouts until I fitted a Facet. Best change I ever made in terms of reliable starting and running beyond general servicing.

You can leave the old pump where it is - with hoses removed.

However, if you do run out of petrol with a facet, they're not keen on sucking air compared to mech pumps so even when you've put petrol in, you have to prime the pump by pulling off the inlet hose, blowing into the tank to shift any crud that there might be in there near the outlet, then aim the hose down until you see fuel then quickly refix hose to pump. I know cos it happened to me last week

On the plus side, you soon know if you're about to run out of fuel as the facet will sound like a hammer drill

Brickwork offer two mechanical pumps - the cheap and cheerful tinfoil variety as offered by Just campers, eBay, etc. but also a high-quality one that looks, feels and weighs the same as the original (which worked fine for the first 30 years of my van's life, after all). It functions perfectly, no issues whatsoever - it pulled fuel through a brand new set of empty fuel lines and filter no problem at all, too. I'd recommend the easy route, shell out for the high-quality mechanical pump plus a new rod (and spacer if yours look dodgy) and save yourself the hassle and potential pitfalls of modifying the fuel system.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/fuel-pump- ... l-wbx.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

When I had starting issues after periods of the van being left standing, I just ordered the rod with a pump too. It was only £3 ( from memory ) over the cost of a pump alone and it seemed sensible to do both the pump and rod together for such a cheap price.

What I would say, is that when changed the pump on mine, my fuel lines were rotten too.
I ended up buying the fuel hose kit to rectify the dodgy rubber lines - unfortunately the pump had a larger inlet port than the diameter of the old pump and new fuel line kit. This drove the need to factor in a reducer.

Not trying to confuse matters for you Al/Anne, but there is nothing more frustrating than have your new parts turn up, to find you need to order something else

My advice - if you follow the easier route of a new mechanical pump - do the rod at the same time and check the new pump has the diameter you need for the inlet port, and make sure your hoses are of good condition.

Reading this back makes it sound awkward. It really isn't, I am just trying to save you one of those "FFS" moments

from memory it only moves up and down about 4mm
so 99mm isn't close enough

This might sound stupid but do you have enough fuel in your tank and is your fuel gauge working properly

I have a spare pump, spacer and rod which are working if you want to try them?

Thanks for all the comments over the last 24 hours, fortunately the weather's been so good I've managed to catch up with some gardening. Thanks wife.