Club 80-90 Forums

Hi, not sure where to post your introduction to the forum, I've just bought a 89 1.9 dg auto sleeper. It had a petrol filter in the engine bay between pump and carb, I removed it today and then replaced hose. Surprise, surprise engine will not start after someone who has no business even touches an engine touches it!

I'd be grateful for any suggestions in fuzzy-felt language or for this post to be moved to the correct place.

Ps, decided to buy one even after the heart stopping photos on metal mickeys threads!

Firstly, hi and welcome! Well done on a fine decision to buy the right vehicle.
Not sure what these heart stopping photos are you mention, probably of air-cold rot boxes. You, however, have bought a late water-cooled so much less prone to rot, and far more reliable IMHO. These are simple motors and everything is fixable.
Good decision to remove the filter/flame-thrower from the engine bay. Mystery why it won't start now though. Are you sure you haven't knocked a wire off somewhere with all that pulling about of hoses? Check one to carb solenoid, and the earth on left hand head. When it turns over, does it fire up and die, or just not fire at all?

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Thanks for reply aj. I'll check connections although there wasn't too much yanking around, just the short piece between pump and carb. I forgot to mention that I also changed dist cap. I labelled up all the wires and have checked Haynes to make sure they are all in correct order.

When I turn the key the starter motor kicks in and I get the odd loud pop, other than that no joy.

I'll check the wires you suggest.

Thanks

If you are hearing a pop then it could be that it is firing in the wrong order so check the distributor cap once again.
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Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of T25 ownership

Thanks for the welcome evil noodle, I'm looking after my sons friends dog this weekend, called noodle!

Boid, thanks for pic, it says it's the firing order for an air cooled, is my 1.9 dg not water cooled? It's a 1989?

What possessed me to buy something that needs some mechanical knowledge is beyond me!

Jimmucks

I changed mine recently and it wouldn't fire coughed and spluttered, took cap off spun 180 degrees swapped leads around and it fired up.

I assume it was a poor connection or gremlin.

Tim



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Thanks organic, I'll take you and others advice and go check cap again. Whilst here, can anybody tell me/ show a pic of where the carb "throat" is when I remove the black plastic plate above carb which is held on with three bolts. Thanks
Jim

As said, leads may be on in wrong order. Also, did you change rotor arm? (Maybe not refitted quite right, or dizzy drive come out of mesh.)

Hi aj, I tried to replace with a new rotor arm, but the one I bought looked correct on the top but was wrong size hole on bottom, too small. It looks quite a complicated rotor arm, is it worth replacing with an "ordinary" one?

That says you've almost certainly got one of the troublesome and unnecessary rev limiting type arms. Replace it with a straightforward normal one. Cheaper and more reliable.
It also says yes, you removed the arm. So check you can't rotate it now. If you can, it's lifted the drive out of mesh and the arm won't rotate as it should. If so it'll never start, just pop and bang like you describe.

I AM THE GOD OF HELL FIRE!

Engine now running, thanks for all your help

Jim

The first of many successful repairs

But what was it...?

Blimey aj, don't put more fear and doubt in my head. It's still running although I think a good service is in order.
Anyone know if I can buy a water pump replacement kit? By that I mean I need to change water pump and suppose I need or should replace associated gaskets, seals gauges etc whilst I'm ordering the pump.