Club 80-90 Forums

Started up my van today having not used it for a week. As usual fired up first time, idled for a bit then I started down the road when a terrible buzzing noise started and the oil warning light started to flash! Stuck in it reverse and abandoned using the van for that journey.

My van is a 1986 DG.

Now the engine appears to be heathy in that it runs fine. I can confirm:

- I'm using 15W 40 oil as always
- It is serviced as required every 6 months
- The oil level in the engine is fine
- The oil filter is screwed in properly
- It hasn't suffered any overheating

So I looked into the Haynes manual and have also recently followed this https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... r&start=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

To test the wiring I've confirmed.

- The buzzer doesn't sound if I start the engine and let it idle
- It sounds as soon as I raise the revs of the engine.
- If I remove the cable from the oil switch at the rear of the engine near the oil filer/water pump and earth it, the buzzer doesn't sounds if the engine idles or is revved.

My feeling is to get a new sensor from Brickwerks and hope for the best... any thoughts?

Thanks

Mark

Yes change the switch, if it's doing it from cold as soon as revs go over 2000rpm without any previous problem it seems unlikely to be genuine low pressure, that usually first shows when the engine is hot.

Sounds similar to problem I had..
Turned out to be a bad connection on the white multiplug connector under the dashpod.
Could also be a bad connection on the oil pressure switch itself.

I earthed the connector to the oil pressure switch near the oil filter and under the water pump and the buzzer didn't sound when I raised the engine revs. I think the cables are okay which was my first area of suspicion.

Thanks for ideas so far, but having looked at the price of a oil pressure switch (around £5) I'll replace that first and hope for the best.

I actually contact Brickwerks today and they suggested performing an oil pressure test before I get carried away with replacing the switches. They also have a good description of the switches on their website:

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/brickwerks ... -switches/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have ordered a simple oil pressure testing gauge so I'll report back on the results; it'll be good to be confident on the engine condition. I'm assuming the best place to plug it in is where the "blue" pressure switch is located between the pushrod tubes?

this is the test guage I use on this post.. (lots of people selling these the ebay link is an example)
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8135524" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Well I've got myself an oil pressure gauge and connected it up.

Initial readings from cold were quite good I thought. On choke idle was 1500rpm and about 3bar. So this proves that the high pressure sender is faulty as this shouldn't have caused the buzzer to go off when the engine was cold.

However letting the engine warm up to temperature, the oil pressure readings let lower. Alarmingly low!

Nothing much registering at idle:



Scraping 1bar at around 2000rpm:



Oh bother that's not good is it?

I'm going to drop the oil next and inspect it for bits. I'll also take out the pressure relief valve and see if it's stuck...

mbcamper wrote:On choke idle was 1500rpm and about 3bar. So this proves that the high pressure sender is faulty as this shouldn't have caused the buzzer to go off when the engine was cold.

I didn't think the buzzer should ever come on when under 2000 revs?
I would stick to your mechanical readings first - let some of those experienced here advise next steps now you have values.

Worry about senders and workings of the buzzer when you know your pressure is either OK or not - you have gone this far so stick to that line to give you a position you know is either good or not. ( I hope that makes sense. )

Just my thoughts from a `know nothing about this` perspective

When the engine was cold it was 3bar at 1500, and higher when I raised the revs. The original buzzer warning went off when the engine was cold and running over 2000rpm, so there is definitely a sensor issue.

However sensor issue aside there is no ignoring the fact that the oil pressure is low when the engine is warm.

So I dropped the oil and fished around in it with a magnet. It didn't pick up anything really, so assuming that bearing casings are magnetic that's one positive point.

The oil relief value is however proving hard to open as I've not got a suitable tool for the job. What are you supposed to open it with? Looks like I'm going to need some very large slot headed screwdriver attachment.

In my quest to get the pressure release valve out I've made this from some hex stock I had:



It fits nicely in the slot, however I just can't get the thing undone. Even supporting it on a jack with light pressure, it's slipping out of the slot.



I suspect someone who worked on it before used a less than ideal tool!

Anyone got any techniques for removing this so I can check the relief valve or am I wasting my time?

Had this couple years ago and panicked thinking the end was nigh...( black smoke out the back and all !! )...turned out it was a faulty sensor that cost me 30 squid including labour

Hope yours is the same...

sydny-punka wrote:Had this couple years ago and panicked thinking the end was nigh...( black smoke out the back and all !! )...turned out it was a faulty sensor that cost me 30 squid including labour

Hope yours is the same...

It isn't he has low oil pressure a sensor doesn't cause that.

mbcamper wrote:In my quest to get the pressure release valve out I've made this from some hex stock I had:

It fits nicely in the slot, however I just can't get the thing undone. Even supporting it on a jack with light pressure, it's slipping out of the slot.


I suspect someone who worked on it before used a less than ideal tool!

Anyone got any techniques for removing this so I can check the relief valve or am I wasting my time?

I made a tool from a piece of 3mm steel (or what ever the slot is) and used an adjustable spanner, but sounds like yours is stuck
I can only suggest getting it hot with a blow torch, I fear the aluminium washer may melt but to be honest you can't drive it with oil pressure like that anyway so it's not a waste of time, worth buying a new spring too.
Another trick is a few sharp hammer blows but be careful not to miss.

bearing material is not magnetic

I'd also be looking to change the pump and cover plate.
Dont buy an uprated pump just a standard one, cover pkates are painted so remove paint with very fine wet and dry using something very flat.
Cover plate gaskets are all too thick so if you can make one from paper its better ( pump end float allowance is 0.1mm less than a gasket)
Standard gasket to engine s ok.
Also try 2050 oil.
these are what I fitted to mine
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... -cam-shaft" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... -8mm-holes" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

need new nuts too and a pump puller.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-OIL-PUMP-P ... XQ2q9RbS-S" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not a quick job some pics here to show the process...
http://s1145.photobucket.com/user/paul_ ... t=3&page=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for the info itchy feet. Your pictures are very helpful.

I was suspicious of the oil pressure gauge secretly hoping that it was reading incorrectly. However I've proved it's giving fair readings. I connected it up to an engine I know is fine; my Rover P4! Once that was up to temperature at idle speed it read 30psi and went up to 50psi when at higher revs. So I trust the gauge, it would appear I really have oil pressure issues.

So back to the oil pressure relieve value. It's now removed but it was a massive pain to get out. It resisted hammering from an impact wrench and careful heating. I finally cut another slot or 2 with an angle grinder and gradually hammered a screwdriver to the new edges. No damage to the engine block, but I'll need a new cover:



The pressure release valve moves freely in the bore, so that looks okay.

Next step the oil pump. So exhaust and tinware removed so expose this:



The Hayles manual doesn't mention the engine supports in the section on engine operations with the engine in the van! Nor does it mention that pipe running across the pump either! I guess I need to remove the engine mount and support the engine on a jack.

My main issue now is the main puly bolt. I've put the van in 5th applied handbrake, and using my torque wrench it's clicking at 200NM but not releasing! Is there a better approach to releasing this? I feel like a need a lot more mechanical advantage!!!