Club 80-90 Forums

Hello
I am currently fitting the twin headlight grill from JK.
Does anyone know the best way to wire them up?
Thanks

Thank you

Deffo need the relays and if it were me and you want nice bright lights, I'd do this too:

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/VW ... ry_to_dash" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

With relays and upgraded dash cable using just the main headlights and stock bulbs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEIkGpC72GY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

With all four, you'll want for nowt

Great Ralph but that's the inferior diagram.........here is a 4 lamp setup (outers with dip/full) this has two separate fused feeds for redundancy and earth points behind each lamp (so if dip goes full carries on working & visa-versa)




Martin

Really need to do this also...

That's handy. Thanks!

I recently noticed that the silvering on our lights had started to corrode. Had a deposit down on a very good second hand set but the vendor's lock up got broken into and the lights were trashed so thinking that before the next MOT I might have to bite the bullet and get the JK ones.

Just looking at the differences in the wiring diagram, I have some starter cable that I was going to run to behind the headlight and take a Feed off for the lights and blower. I'd run to separate feeds thereafter but should I not do that and have to complete feeds from the battery to the lights.

I suppose if both high and low fail simultaneously, I'd know where about to look I suppose.

There's no right or wrong way to do this. Using the old dip/full beam lamp feeds (going to the O/S/F headlamp cluster) as a trigger for the relays, is simple and genius. Having two separate feeds from the battery (one to each of the relays dip/full) means that each circuit (dip/full) remain independent from the another. This really makes a lot of sense and actually is very easy to do....The difference is running a heavy 'twin core' wire to the relays, as apposed to one heavy single core cable... and the additional fuse holder to ensure each circuit in protected separately. Same goes for the earthing points....one each side, just a case of fabricating earth posts using 2 X 6mm nut/bolts..I'm pretty sure that there were already some pre-drilled holes in the metalwork behind the headlamps (just a case of scraping some paint off to get a good earth point).


Martin