Club 80-90 Forums

Okay, i just recently purchased a syncro with 2.1 wbx digijet. Car has been standing for 13 years in a parking lot, i got it running and drove it home Then the problems started, now the engine barely stays on, you have to constantly pump the accelerator to keep it alive, and it runs super rich according to plugs, wich were pitch black and smelt like fuel. Plugs are new, rotor and dizzy cap seems good, as well as the wires. I wonder is some sensor dead, like water/air?

One weird thing, when i purchased it the idle was screaming at 2000rpms. Now it wont idle at all... curious.

temp 2 sensor perhaps.
Don't fancy that wbx will last long, internal corrosion will probably have taken it's toll

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-coolant ... emp-2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good find! If it had correct coolant in it engine may be ok, but 13 years of corrosion on earth points and connectors in air may well be your trouble. You must have put fresh fuel in on top of the golden syrup in the tank?!

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It was repaired (faulty valves) before previous owner left it there, so there was brand new fluids inside, both coolant and oil.

There is plenty of fresh fuel and new filter, i managed to get it running and somewhat idling but it is crap. It idles from the 1-500 rpm, very poorly. But when accelerated, it operates normally. I disconnected the idle circuit and attached the 2 wires together, runs better that way (weird??) I've also made a new ground point as the old one was rusted to "pooh". I do have to replace that temp sensor, i already replaced the one going for the temp gauge, but that did not help. Im no electrician so im kinda helplless with that issue. Also no idea how much fuel is in the tank, no signal from there either, maybe bad float or bad ground. Dunno where is the ground point for that.

have you checked there isn't anything living in the air filter?

I would replace all the earths don't try and run it without the ecu having a good grounding or it will be fried, as previously said break and clean all the electrical connections. carefully remove the top of the afm and give it a good blast with contact cleaner, don't put your fingers in there stand it on end and let the cleaner run through. new plugs, ht leads, dissy cap and rotor arm, new air filter, temp2, oil and coolant, good find, why do I never find owt

mark

Had a van that did the same under similar circumstances. (Parked up for a while)

Was damp/water in ecu that had collected and after 400 meters of first trip it cut out and was flooding badly.

Took ecu apart and cleaned it with contact cleaner/dried it and all was good.

Not saying this is your issue but might be worth a look at

Will do all of that. Here it is possible to see old T3's everewhere, they were workhorses in all possible places. T2's and T1s are getting rare tho..

Ps. I wonder is my oil sensor bad or something. It screams (buzzer inside dashboard) as soon as the rpms go over certain limit. But i can drive for 40km with it screaming and engine is fine. It is either the gauge or the sensor... how to find out wich?

also check that the throttle body switch is buzzing this will do something similar to the tick over if it isn't buzzing.....remove and clean with carb cleaner if no buzz...........the buzzer of doom (as it is affectionately know round these parts) indicates low oil pressure, change the oil and filter and check the wiring front to back

mark

oil buzzer..
https://web.archive.org/web/20150627053 ... fo/dop.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It has to be wiring, or ground issue as there are new oils inside plus ive driven it without any issues. That article did not say where the oil sensors are located?

I'm not a fan of the DOP article mentioned above, as it endorses disabling it in some way. Much better to fix it.
The higher pressure, normally open switch is often the culprit, and can be found between the main pulley and water pump pulley, low down and hard to reach with the alternator belt on. Replace with the grey switch from Brickwerks.Here


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I agree far better to fix it but the article explains how it works, if you ground it and the buzzer stops then you know its the wire, connetor or switch between where you grounded it and the engine thats at fault.

You can just see the buzzer switch on the right of this pic by the oil filter.



and this one to right of oil filter


low pressure oil light switch between push rod tubes under cover.

Thanks, now i am much wiser again