Club 80-90 Forums

So when I am back in the UK this summer I plan to get the underbody of my van cleaned up and treated.

I am thinking of buying a waxoyl air gun attachment and borrowing a mates compressor / renting one for ease of application and using the 1 litre Hammerite waxoyl cans.

A Few questions
- How many 1 litre cans would I need to do my van?
- How thorough do I need to be cleaning the old waxoyl and VW protection gunk off from under the van?
- Do I need to paint any exposed metal such as the inside face of replaced arches etc?
- As all the interior is out, should I also do the inside of the bottom of doors and bottom of the panels such as behind the fridge, above the wheel arch etc? or will this stink the van out?
- How many coats are needed?

Any general advice?

Cheers

You can get 5 litres of waxoyl plus a hand operated sprayer off ebay for about £32 delivered, going to get one myself to use. Not sure about the rest of your question, cheers.

Waxoyl is a good product but make sure you have a proper mask as you don't want this stuff in your lungs. Also don't use it in an enclosed space. It is nasty.

How much prep are you going to do to the underneath of your van before spraying?

Will let it dry first then basically brush it starting with a stiff handbrush working down to smaller soft bronze or brass brush. Any built up deposits will shift them with a shaped piece of wood etc so no scratching. If the waxoyl is warmed first it sprays easier, cheers.

And is it ok to use waxoyl for the arches etc too? The hammerite kind which I think is mixed with paint?

prefer dinitrol on the undersides
mm

find a truck garage and get it steam cleaned. I got mine done years ago and it looked like new, not any more !

Talking of dinitrol ( thread jump alert, sorry), I'm going to spray some dinitrol into the bottoms of my cab door cavities but am worried that the weep hole may become clogged with it and prevent moisture from escaping. Any thoughts MM? I can feed some wire in there to recreate the hole but does the stuff remain gloopy and 'move about' if the van is parked in the sun? Thanks in advance.

i believe the one ive been using sort of sets once applied,yes heat does alter its viscosity but i dont think enough to cause you concerns, good idea to wire the holes out after a day or so though , certainly cant see it doing any harm
mm

Many thanks MM. Do you happen to know if it's possible to 'flush' out the cills? I wondered if when summer is at its hottest, whether it would be beneficial to Jack the van up, remove the plastic plugs and pressure wash the internals. Followed by airing/blowing with hot air before treating with a suitable dinitrol product. Any thoughts? Cheers.

Piece of three foot 8mm ID fuel hose, stick a few inches into your Hoover hose then gaffa tape it in to get an airtight seal. Poke it into every sill and crossmember and get poking. You'll be amazed at what comes out

The sills don't get the bad from the ones I've seen. Rear crossmember between jacking points can be completely full of sand n silt though

Much appreciated. Won't some of the crud/flakes be larger than 8 mm and potentially block the pipe?

Keep prodding to break up stuff. If you hear Hoover note change, pull it out and unblock the end

Sure others have different stories, but when chopping up the crustiest of vans the sill cavities always appear quite clean.

Wouldn't get the insides wet IMHO. might have seen moisture in their life but no where near as much as a proper soaking. It might have an adverse effect and solidify/harden any sand and silt

Thanks again, I shall steer clear of wet flushing and vacuum instead. I wouldn't want to create any problems for the future.