Club 80-90 Forums

I was driving to the MOT and the van died. All off in a heart beat. Sitting at lights.

So, thinking it was a short pulled the battery terminal off, didn't spark at all when I did, so pushed it back on, came back to life. It did this again. On the way back, same solution, though it came back on briefly before the all off.

I'm thinking, it's either the alternator, regulator or the immobiliser.

I can't think what else would have the ability to just power the van off like that. Going to go check the regulator, I've a scope and a usb multimeter. So can record the voltage over time. Not sure where the guy installed the immobiliser.

Any other suggestions? Wiring on the van is in excellent condition.

Do you mean just the engine, or do you mean the lights, radio and starter motor etc all die at the same time?

Ignition switch?

marlinowner wrote:Ignition switch?

That's a strong possibility!

I'd of said the same.....ignition switch, cost under a tenner, available from EuroCarParts, GSF, Brickwerks etc

Martin

Thanks for the replies.

Hmm, didn't think of that, might be actually. It was an all off moment, literally dead, I think I reached for the hazards and nothing, but I can't remember how long I left the switch on and I seem to remember that it takes a while before they start flashing might not have given them long enough. Pulled the battery terminal, got out switched it off,back on, starting ok. Pulling off the battery terminal might be a red herring. Need for it to happen when I'm not stopped in the middle of the road which happened both times.

Tested the regulator and its 14.05 volts and not moving a wiggle. Being silicon, tend to work or not work. Drove it to the garage on Sat, fine.

So, it might well be the ignition, but that is a pain because its a new key isn't it?

FYI: The reason I suggested the immobiliser is that I could have sworn I heard it beeping like insane immobilisers do at 2am.

The ignition switch can start to fail and do all sorts of strange things. They are not the best design and can cause all sorts of problems when they start failing. Before mine failed it would only start the engine when I released the key - bizarre experience. Then it eventually packed up a couple of days later. Replace it and then see what happens. The key isn't relevant - it's an electrical thing. It's such a cheap fix and even if it wasn't the problem you have a new switch to keep you going for years.

Just to clarify ^^^^ - the key part is separate from the switch, replace the switch and you keep the same key.

You could buy a new switch, pull off the electrical plug and attach it to the new switch (use a screw driver to turn the switch to start the van) then test with the new switch just dangling.
Obviously depends on how often you are getting the fault.

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:You could buy a new switch, pull off the electrical plug and attach it to the new switch (use a screw driver to turn the switch to start the van) then test with the new switch just dangling.

Not forgetting to still insert and turn the key to disable the steering lock before driving off







By the way, been there, done that

I once had a key on my key bunch short out a contact on the steering column which produced smoke as I was driving along (a good reason why the steering cowling needs to be there!) and in desperation turned the ignition off and floored the clutch. It stopped the smoke but then found my steering was locked - a hair raising experience I can tell you.

Changing the switch is easy by the way.

Forgetting the steering lock when in a car that is being towed = not good

No-one has picked up on the OP mentioning an immobilizer.
If aftermarket they can give gip as they get old. I have binned a few Lazerlines in the past because of random non-starting. They don't age well.

lack of hazards says not ignition switch fault as hazard switch is permanently fed live you can put hazards on with no ignition key in

I'm having some similar issues and have sourced it down to a potentially dodgy connection of the live from the starter motor.

Worth noting that at this age it's perfectly plausible that you have a perished wire in the circuit somewhere. There should be 13amps coming out of your Alternator and going back to your battery. Dropping an amp is OK, but more than that needs investigating.