Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

Changing front and rear hoses and bleeding breaks. Whats the best way to do this?

The Haynes manual covers this. Basically work through, replace your hoses (and everything else that breaks or sheers off that you hadn't expected) then bleed accordingly. The WIKI has a lot on brakes.

burnzdog wrote: What's the best way to do this ?

If in the slightest doubt have them done by a professional or at least an experienced and competent person. Let's not become a home for Captain "cock"-up.

Ian

Thanks Ian, isnt that whats this forum is for? otherwise why dont we take all our issues to a trained "competant"? my experience the work I have carried out by myself on my own bus is far more thorough than anything your professionally trained competent has done.

Ian Hulley wrote:

burnzdog wrote: What's the best way to do this ?

If in the slightest doubt have them done by a professional or at least an experienced and competent person. Let's not become a home for Captain ""cock""-up.

Ian

burnzdog wrote: my experience the work I have carried out by myself on my own bus is far more thorough than anything your professionally trained competent has done.

Not sounding too confident about doing the brakes though are you?

Any monkey can change the breaks, just depends if you want the van to stop when required and to do so in a safe fashion. If that's what is required, ask someone more experienced to assist you, two pairs of hands are better than one, etc.

burnzdog wrote: Thanks Ian, isnt that whats this forum is for?

In my opinion this forum is a place for those of us who have done a great many jobs on our own and others T25s to give correct advice to those who are in need of it. That's exactly what I have done. Sadly there are more than enough people who are willing to spout endless drivel about the mechanics of these vans when in fact they are completely clueless and never been out from behind their keyboard.

If you are unsure of what you are doing to your vehicle's brakes (or anything else in all honesty) you should have it done professionally OR try to get help from someone who is mechanically competent and watch him/her do it ... that way you will learn to do the job yourself next time .... we all learned somewhere, in my case as a lifter, fetcher and tool passer for a trained mechanic.

Cheers, Ian.

Flexible brake hose replacement whilst critical, isn't a particularly difficult job to undertake and thankfully, the correct fitment or otherwise, is easy to check after the repair has been done.

The main issues around replacement:
1) Seized metal brake pipe unions (see 4)
2) Seized bleed nipples (best to make sure all four come loose before proceeding).
3) Caution when screwing in brake unions; don't use the brake pipe spanner until you first screw the union threads in by hand 2 - 3 turns, they can easily cross thread and have to be exactly square on to engage.
4) The brakes can sometimes be a pain to bleed after the system has fully drained of fluid. You will need at least 2 litres of DOT4.
5) The nature of this job MAY lead to one or more metal brake pipes requiring replacement IF unions round. A pair of Vise Grip (locking pliers) is an almost obligatory tool in the removal of stubborn seized brake pipe unions.
6) Personally, I am not a fan of aftermarket, so called 'performance' braided hoses. I would stick with genuine original replacements or quality brands.
7) Avoid twists in the hoses and don't crimp.
When bleeding, a pressure bleeder is preferred but if this is not possible, use controlled depressions on the pedal and good half turns (fully open bleed nipples) to avoid resistance when bleeding.
9) Top up the fluid regularly (under the speedo binnacle, pull up from the rear) to avoid drawing in air (otherwise you will have to start all over again)
10) Bleed furthest away from the master cylinder first, working your way to the closest. Run 250ml through each cylinder/calliper. You might want to bleed the clutch slave cylinder at the same time (it uses the same reservoir). This is positioned on the top N/S of the gearbox bell housing.

Has the job been done correctly?
With the engine running, get someone to press reasonable hard on the brake pedal whilst visually inspecting the brake pipe connections.
There shouldn't be any leaks
Take time to have a good feel of the brake pedal before the repair so you can compare 'before to after' it shouldn't feel any different or should I say, it should feel at least as good.
Move the steering lock to lock and check the tyre to hose and hose to spring clearance on the fronts.
Finally...Road Test...see if it pulls up straight and with a good pedal (same or better than it was)
If it does pull or the brake travel is worse than it was, it will need further bleeding.

Martin

This is a job I also plan to do. Where is the best source of OEM flexy hoses - I'm not keen on braided ones?
Thanks

Have followed and so far so good. Than you for such a helpful guide. I will be getting my work checked by a professional before taking it anywhere.

California Dreamin wrote:Flexible brake hose replacement whilst critical, isn't a particularly difficult job to undertake and thankfully, the correct fitment or otherwise, is easy to check after the repair has been done.

The main issues around replacement:
1) Seized metal brake pipe unions (see 4)
2) Seized bleed nipples (best to make sure all four come loose before proceeding).
3) Caution when screwing in brake unions; don't use the brake pipe spanner until you first screw the union threads in by hand 2 - 3 turns, they can easily cross thread and have to be exactly square on to engage.
4) The brakes can sometimes be a pain to bleed after the system has fully drained of fluid. You will need at least 2 litres of DOT4.
5) The nature of this job MAY lead to one or more metal brake pipes requiring replacement IF unions round. A pair of Vise Grip (locking pliers) is an almost obligatory tool in the removal of stubborn seized brake pipe unions.
6) Personally, I am not a fan of aftermarket, so called 'performance' braided hoses. I would stick with genuine original replacements or quality brands.
7) Avoid twists in the hoses and don't crimp.
When bleeding, a pressure bleeder is preferred but if this is not possible, use controlled depressions on the pedal and good half turns (fully open bleed nipples) to avoid resistance when bleeding.
9) Top up the fluid regularly (under the speedo binnacle, pull up from the rear) to avoid drawing in air (otherwise you will have to start all over again)
10) Bleed furthest away from the master cylinder first, working your way to the closest. Run 250ml through each cylinder/calliper. You might want to bleed the clutch slave cylinder at the same time (it uses the same reservoir). This is positioned on the top N/S of the gearbox bell housing.

Has the job been done correctly?
With the engine running, get someone to press reasonable hard on the brake pedal whilst visually inspecting the brake pipe connections.
There shouldn't be any leaks
Take time to have a good feel of the brake pedal before the repair so you can compare 'before to after' it shouldn't feel any different or should I say, it should feel at least as good.
Move the steering lock to lock and check the tyre to hose and hose to spring clearance on the fronts.
Finally...Road Test...see if it pulls up straight and with a good pedal (same or better than it was)
If it does pull or the brake travel is worse than it was, it will need further bleeding.

Martin

Got mine from JK

drillmaster wrote:This is a job I also plan to do. Where is the best source of OEM flexy hoses - I'm not keen on braided ones?
Thanks

OEM Volkswagen of course lol.....I'm pretty sure the front flexi's were around £16 each and the rears quite a bit less...hmm £12 - £13 something like that.
I first fitted some braided hoses which I basically scrapped after the front tyres wore through the outer covers of the hoses.
Then I did what I should have done first, which was to go to my VW dealer and buy genuine hoses. But to be honest any decent quality brand will be good.
There are late and early versions...

You won't go far wrong buying from these guys....ridiculously cheap if I say so myself.

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... front.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Martin

OK great thanks, and I didn't realise they were still available from VW

JK just list the OEM part number, the parts are not OEM unless stated

kevtherev wrote:JK just list the OEM part number, the parts are not OEM unless stated

Handy info for tracking parts down.