Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

Sorry it's taken me so long to type these up and sorry if they don't make much sense to everyone...

Thanks again to the guys at GASURE.UK for giving up their time for this great day!

Any mistakes, please let me know.

Cheers,
Joe



General

Use only GL4 Gearbox oil - change every 3 years

M17 Allen key for gear box oil sump plug.

Mud flaps do wonders to protect the body work but don't look great!

If wheel arches are repaired and repainted, ensure plastic protector is applied under final lacquer coat

Check inner sills have clear drain holes to allow drainage. These allow drainage from inside panels - if not drill drainage holes (more than 12" from jacking points)

Tracking - front to back 5mm wider at rear of front wheel.

Brake lines - if upgrading, fit good ridge lines:

Gear changer (bottom of gear stick) is hidden above spare wheel.

Fuel breather tank is inside passenger (both??) wheel arch

Once corrosion is treated - use Waxoil to treat undercarriage

If changing brake disks - change pads and wheel bearings at same time.

Tyre pressures - 2.5barg front, 3barg rear

Use mineral oil - 15/40 or 20/50

Brown wiring = earth - main earth under dash on passenger side (left)

Check end cap on axle hole is square (passenger side) - this connects to odometer


MOT points

Listen for 'clack' in CV joints when twisting arm

Check for movement by twisting shock absorbers - a small amount of play is normal

Check bottom of suspension for cracks, replace pain - check around top hat under cover at the base.

Within 12" of jacking point any Corrosion is MOT fail on any surface.

Fuel line should be polypropylene

Check steering arm boots intact an filled with grease. If clamp is missing - a tie wrap is OK

Track rod ends - check boots.

Check bushes are not split

Any movement of anti roll bushes = MOT fail

Corrosion to door steps = MOT failure

Check flexible brake lines behind calliper has proper clamp rather than jubilee clip.

Wheel arch holds seat belt mount. Any rot = MOT failure

Emissions - max 4.5% CO (carbon monoxide), 1200 ppm (parts per million) HC (hydrocarbons)

Headlights rough angles - dipped should hit waist height, full beams should hit chest

Hazard lights should have an indicator internally

The 12 inch from jacking point rule is a can of worms that frequently pops up on the Facebook page. There are a few testers that will share their view on this and I understand from them that due to the vehicle having a chassis, this rule doesn't apply. I'm not an authority and can only repeat what I've learned but as it happens, my tester is strict (which I prefer because there's no point hiding from faults) and he too doesn't apply the 12 inch rule to my van.

Perhaps others can comment.

I thought an MOT fail would result from significant corrosion found LESS than 12"/300mm from a suspension element pick-up point in a structural member i.e. sill, crossmember, "chassis" rail etc?

The steps aren't a fail, mine have been duff for four years.

WHS^

if anyone is bored, next MOT ask to see the footprint of a T3 on the computer that shows structural failure bits

Can steps and cills not included (unless the 12" or 30cm for the ladies that dream in metric)

Was also surprised that cv boots on non steering axle are advisory