Club 80-90 Forums

Hi to the forum,

I have a front caliper that wears out the outside pad within a year, and I decided to try to change the pads for the first time.

The outer piston seems seized in a fully extended position, and Ive had a read to find a topic about it but the ones that seem relevant are locked.

Should I try to free it with wd40 or take the caliper off (how do I do that without messing with the brake fluid?), or replace it?

The dust seals are melted and the disc is also scored pretty badly from rubbing on a bare metal brake pad base. Should I change the disc, the worst groove is about half a millimetre or a bit deeper but on the very outer edge of the rim?

I would be so grateful for advice as I need to get the van out of pay and display soon!

If it is beyond me, anyone know a good mechanic in London who can come sort it outside on the road?

Darius

You could try rebuilding the caliper.. You will need to take it off the van and disconnect it from the brake line then buy new seal/boots ect. Probably a lot easier to buy a new caliper, places like brickwerks sell them on exchange for your old unit. WD40 will do nothing.
If the disc is scored would be a good idea to replace it, again brickwerks sell them, you would need new wheel bearings as well..

To be honest its one of those jobs that could be nice and easy, but could spiral into things like new brake flexi's, new brake pipes ect as you may find the joins impossible to undo. Whereabouts in London are you?

If the piston is seized then both need to come out, make sure the bleed nipple can be undone, crimp the flexi pipe with a suitable tool, remove the caliper from the hub, support it so you don't stretch the pipe, push the pistons out with the brake pedal, then the bore seals can be removed and all the crap under the seal removed. (rust and muck)

refit the old seals and refit the pistons, then bleed it through
reassemble the brakes.
If the disc is below it's serviceable width then it must be replaced or the brake fluid will boil under heavy braking.
If replace the disc then the inner wheel bearing race will have to be replaced too

Many Thanks for the replies,

I am in Archway in North London, I am preparing to try a caliper rebuild, and if it doesn't work look at a new unit, but economy dictates that I sort it out myself as far as possible.

Where would you order the refurbishing kit, I thought to go to GSF car parts where I bought the pads.

Brickwerks, for your calipers.
I doubt you'll need new.
Unless the pistons are really screwed up and the bleed hole is completely shagged
There were two types of caliper fitted to T25.
Brickwerks take your old one and match it.
Or you can look in the wiki and discover it yourself.

I started trying to remove the front left calliper and find the nut that conmects it to the brake flyid hose is seized and partly rounded off before I even start.

I can't get it to turn and now its even more chewed up.

Does the nut turn as you would expect, anti clockwise, and can I please get a good tip for undoing damaged nuts?

Thanks people

Two bolts hold the carrier on the hub.
What nuts are you undoing?

You don't need to disconnect the flexi pipes.

Just remove the pads from the caliper normally and then remove two bolts from the carrier. (that hold it on the hub)
Have you discovered what make of caliper they are.(ATE or Girling)