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Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 09:00
by AlandAnn
Good Morning All,
Just had to rip the old rusty splash plates from my front brakes, they were well past resembling anything practical. Has anyone ever replaced these, and if so is it difficult ? And do we actually need them ?
Thanks.
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 12:03
by what2do
Many people don't bother to replace but if you're inclined to do so then you need to remove the (badly corroded) screws from the hub. Replacements are easy enough to locate, Brickwerks or even eBay.
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 12:19
by manxblade
Just done mine got the new ones from brickwerks easy to do use lots off wd40 on old screws
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 12:49
by AlandAnn
Thanks, did you have to remove the wheel hub ?
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 14:08
by boatbuilder
Yes you have to remove the caliper and the hub/ brake disc. I had a hard time getting out some of the little Philips head bolts that hold on the splashplate as they were totally seized in the holes.
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 16:36
by AlandAnn
Many thanks, that'll be a summer job then .
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 28 Dec 2015, 23:37
by boatbuilder
Well you might be lucky but I ended up taking the whole knuckle off and working on it on the bench.... had to drill and re thread some of the holes.
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 29 Dec 2015, 17:03
by manxblade
As well as wd40 I used a small hammer and tapped the hub in the areas were the screws where which seamed to help
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 29 Dec 2015, 17:40
by waltraud
Plus gas better than wd40 for this job. I treated it for a couple of days before using an impact driven screwdriver on the rusty screws.
Re: Brake Splash Plates Question
Posted: 29 Dec 2015, 17:54
by what2do
I don't wish to teach anyone how to suck eggs but it's imperative that the slots in the head of the screws are free of all corrosion so that the tip of the screw driver has a 'fighting chance' of fitting snugly. An impact driver would be best if you have one, if not, thump the end of the screwdriver with a good sized hammer, in the hope that the shock will free the bond between the screw and the thread.