Club 80-90 Forums

Hello

The oil in my bus gets very hot and the buzzer of doom goes of if I go faster than 90km/t for more than fifteen minutes. In cold weather.
This started right after I had some work done on my bus where I had to open the cooling system(crack in plastic component). An oil leak was also stopped and the valves was adjusted.
I have previously mounted oil and temperature gauges so I am able to watch the pressure drop as the temperature rises. The coolant temperature never varies.
Can it be an air pocket blocking the sandwichelement so the oil doesnt get cooling from the coolant? (Just speculating here ..)

Where was the oil leak? What was the broken plasic component in the cooling system?
Not a lot of info to work with so far...

The broken plastic component was on the right side of the engine, where the pipes come from the front. The oil leak was in a gasket on top of the engine. Not much, but the EU control says " hasard of polluting to environment" or something similar.
I suspect the the rise of oil temperature has nothing to do with these repairs directly, but rather because of the job.
This is the first time I didn't work on the bus myself, so I don't have the same control of what has been done there.

valves adjusted sounds odd, they are hydraulic, I have read the preload can change engine performance alot.
what temp is the oil getting to when buzzer goes?
has cooling stem been bled properly?

Got a source for that preload info?

I agree it sounds like the coolant system is airlocked. Blocked bleed rail hoses maybe? Often forgotten, expecially the one from the top of the thermostat housing.

Did the engine actially have a coolant leak?

Have you checked the thermostat is ok? Just because the temp gauge reads ok it doesnt necessarily mean all is well.

Does the heater function normally and blow hot at idle?

Aleksander wrote:The oil leak was in a gasket on top of the engine.

Do we know what type of engine this is?

Well its a 2.1 so that does narrow it down quite a bit John

After adjusting the preload on the valves I got rid of a ticking-noise and the bus runs smoother ( and maybe stronger ?).
The buzzer goes of at aproximatly 125 C, but I guess this will wary with the oil used (5W-40). The oil pressure/temp ratio has not changed, but now the oil gets warmer and the pressure drops more.
The coolant temperature has not changed on the instrument ( looks to be a little on the cold side) and the heater works.
Can the coolant be blocked by air some place locally in the engine but still open to the radiator ?

silverbullet wrote:Well its a 2.1 so that does narrow it down quite a bit John

Ah, it's in the subject line = missed that

I am sure that someone will come along and start shouting about the use of 5W40 oil in a wbx that hasnt had a full rebuild and is fitted with an oil cooler...
The oil is getting quite hot regardless. Did you have a bad coolant leak before the plastic elbow cracked?
If the engine was badly overheated from coolant loss then the main bearings *may* be out of line and this would make it run hot.

No source for preload
it was a chap on here (thread may exist in archive) that tried different preloads
he said it was worryly powerful with preload set wrong f I remember

I'd take coolant pipes to oil cooler off and check coolant is flowing through it, maybe got clogged up after tge coolant was changed

I cant imagine any standard wbx being "worryingly" powerful

silverbullet wrote:I cant imagine any standard wbx being "worryingly" powerful

Can't find the post, this one says if the lifter is not pumping up valve timing is affected.
http://archive.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic ... d#p7894092" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No, it was not a leak as much as a crack in the plastic. Just a coincident that it was spotted at all. I had to top up maybe half a liter in the last year. The filling tank never under half and the expansion tank always full. Never had an heat issue. The hose to the oil cooler seems to be a natural place to start looking.
About the valves; the ticking I have had since I put in this engine(not rebuild or anything) went away and we could se more traces of wear on one lifter. I dont think I experience the bus as worryingly powerful, but maybe a little smoother in accleration ?

It seems like these two are separate issues, but it would be a first for me finding only one problem when working on the bus.

Somebody may correct me but if oil has been to 125degC it may need replacing.