Club 80-90 Forums

Any of you guys ever use this product on Any window seals with any success?

https://sugru.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If it pisses down for a while I have a few minor leaks in the front passenger and driver footwells, it's all rubber up there so Not a massive issue. The water is gathering at the bottom corners and then seeping in under the seal.
The windscreen will have to be resealed again I know but I am on the road and it's not practical to do it at the moment.

I was wondering could I use Sugru as a stop gap till I'm in a position to get the job done properly.

Better to use roofing mastic under the lip. Its cheap too. Water will be coming in from top of screen and running down under the seal to the bottom.

Or try..http://www.amazon.co.uk/Captain-Tolleys ... B003T6EJ9A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

CovKid wrote:Better to use roofing mastic under the lip. Its cheap too. Water will be coming in from top of screen and running down under the seal to the bottom.

Is that the type where only the surface cures?

Creeping crack cure, ha ok, sounds like an ointment for an std !!!

Yep. Water won't get past it. Mind you, it won't cure rot/rust.

flyinghitop wrote:
Is that the type where only the surface cures?

CovKid wrote:Better to use roofing mastic under the lip. Its cheap too. Water will be coming in from top of screen and running down under the seal to the bottom.

Is there a techique to applying it? By that I mean do I put a lot in or just a thick bead where the seal meets the glass?

No - nowhere near glass. Water doesn't get in that way. You cut the end off the tube (small bead) and run this between seal and body only. Doesn't need much. Any excess easy removed with white spirit.

Most assume (with good reason I suppose) that water sits at bottom against the glass and works its way inside. In practice this doesn't happen as the fit there tends to be snug even on an old seal. The vast majority of water ingress can't be seen at all as its under the seal itself against the bodywork and invariably comes via the top where seal meets roof, then water has nowhere to go except down, under the rubber (out of sight) and ends up puddled on the hidden windscreen lip.

Do you need to dry it out first - if so any ideas how?

Yeah - do it in Summer. I'm afraid thats probably the only sure way to get it right although if it IS leaking, you need to pop windscreen out and sort any rust first. If windscreen has never been out (and this applies to any owner), I guarantee theres rot under there. If its just to get through this Winter then by all means lift the rubber and use a hair dryer to get a dry surface prior to application but don't get complacent and go through two winters like that. Rot in corners weakens integrity and strength - not great should you have a real bump. Best to whip screen out and get the job done.

That's right, mine looked ok but a pinhole of rust in each corner. Rubbed it down to bare metal and its still solid although it's still a bit bumpy on one corner (literally had a few minutes to rub it down, then vactan and small amount of filler in pinhole and dry it out with a hairdryer while Autoglass were preparing replacement screen).
I've seen arbomast recommended and can order it now, does it do as good a job as roofing mastik?

I'm sure it will although last time I bought roofing mastic it was really cheap - about £3 in DIY stores.

Bit the bullet and took the window out, I was expecting it to be rotten around the frame but alas, there wasn't a bit of rust , to my delight. So obviously this leak is only a new thing thank feck. I've only had the van since March.
Got it resealed , was tough to get back in, three or 4 man job !! Well one who really knows what he was doing and three helpers , I was defo just a lowly helper

HI. did it stay waterproof. Should the bead of mastic run along the very edge of the seal where it meets the metal or further in?

1cm (roughly) under the lip so water can't get in. Nozzle cut smaller is about right because a little goes a long way. A continuous thin bead is what you aim for - it just creates a secondary gasket. Top is the favourite place for water to get in. Do the job when its been dry for at least 3 days.

As an aside and reminder to anyone with rust around windscreen, you should not seal it this way. The problem with doing that is it lets rust fester even more, becomes a cleaning nightmare if you then have to remove screen later, and worse it can delay a job (its simply forgotten about) when really it needed doing quite urgently and then the full horrors are revealed say, 5 years later. Then its disheartening and frankly, costly. Cheaper to fix early than later.