Club 80-90 Forums

Has anyone tried using the gel rust remover. It sounds like wonderfull stuff according to the advertising.

http://mistralie.co.uk/products/gel-rust-remover" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Vactan seems to be the chemical of choice on here. I've used it many times with great results, search for it on here as there are plenty of reviews for it.

Regards

Second that, vactan brilliant stuff, put some on various bits this time last year and rust still hasn't came back thru.

The important thing is to get to all of the rust, seams being the most problematic. If you only treat one side, it will come back.

The active ingredient in Vactan is tannin (found in tea) bound in an acrylic base. If you want to see how effective tannic acid is, try leaving a moist used teabag on something rusty (iron oxide) or several hours. The tannin turns it black, converting it to ferric tannate which is more stable. The acrylic base or other binding agent, as it dries, effectively seals the area preventing further corrosion. Vactan does all that in one microscopic coat.

Thanks for the advice chaps. Vatican it is then. I guess I should spray it into the chassis as well

get rid of as much loose stuff as you can first with a wire brush or some sand paper

Shaundon wrote:get rid of as much loose stuff as you can first with a wire brush or some sand paper

That's were I thought the acid stuff would help. Not sure if it would have any negative effect on the converter if there was any left though. I have been here before but the seam rust is coming back now after six years or so. thinking I will scrape away and grit blast as much as I can get to then do the acid stuff then clean it up and Vatican. Whaddya reckon?

CovKid wrote:The important thing is to get to all of the rust, seams being the most problematic. If you only treat one side, it will come back.

The active ingredient in Vactan is tannin (found in tea) bound in an acrylic base. If you want to see how effective tannic acid is, try leaving a moist used teabag on something rusty (iron oxide) or several hours. The tannin turns it black, converting it to ferric tannate which is more stable. The acrylic base or other binding agent, as it dries, effectively seals the area preventing further corrosion. Vactan does all that in one microscopic coat.

so on this basis we could all clean out our seams make a good and strong batch of tea and apply it , dry and re seal ?

More or less although the thought of wasting good tea on seams is a step too far for me. I suppose the answer is that you can't seal it quickly enough and Vactan is fairly cheap as you only need the smallest bottle anyway. Its just difficult if not impossible to get to all of it, even if you strip the interior. Sadly its a weakness in the design. All you can do is hold it back for an unknown period of time unless the whole vehicle is dipped or you're fitting new panels.

Just for completeness, what is the correct "gook" to put back in the seams after raking out and treating?


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Tigerseal

Aye. Polyfilla just falls out.

Or sikaflex

Ta folks (I think Mr John Williams used Polyfiller )