Club 80-90 Forums

Hi folks...suffered the inevitable fate of many...fuel pump appears to have died and am in the middle of removing with the aim of replacing with a lecy Facet pump (as per recs and other forum threads which I've been reading).

However far from the simply job suggested removing the pump has been a b*stard. Adjacent to the pump is a rusty piece of tin covering something - see photos.




After a few choice words and blessed with ambidextrous fingers I managed to remove the virtually hidden upper Torx bolt so have managed to get the whole pump off. Unfortunately the pushrod which I can now see protruding knocks up against the casing preventing me removing altogether. I suppose I could have left the pump on but a) I wanted to inspect the pump b) I want to keep things clean with a blanking plat once facet is installed. The 4 screws on the casing are either inaccessible or those that I can get to are rusted solid and won't budge, I tried an impact driver but case and surrounding tin isn't particularly solid so driver isn't much good and afraid I'll do more damage than good.

So for now couple of questions ...

- what does the casing cover (sorry my mechanics is at the early stages and I cant find any references to it anywhere...the manuals just say undo torx bolts and remove pump...yea right !)
- unless I'm thinking of returning to a mech pump presumably no harm in hacksawing pushrod to remove so I can fit blanking plate

Ta

Stu
Stuart

The tinware is a duct for warm air for the carbs it comes out here. You can drill off the screw heads and then drill through the captive nuts and nut and bolt it back in place.

You don't need to remove pump. Just block the inlet/outlet if you like. If you remove it you have to fit a blanking plate which costs. Its easier to just leave the pump where it is and let it be its own blanking plate. Pushrod fine where it is.

Much appreciated Bigherb and Covkid...I have to say I was hoping one or both of you would reply !

Looks like an inquiring mind has got the better of me and I should have just left the pump in place, I'll try and get the bugger back on then !

Re new pump am planning on fitting a Facet 60104 Posi-Flow Fuel pump (low pressure) + Rubber Mounting Kit...connected about 8in after fuel filter. Any recs on hoses ? Was going to keep 8mm line from tank to filter and then via 6mm unions either side of pump run 6mm all the way thru to carbs which already have new 6mm tails off T-piece. No need for any reducers as I believe the filter is stepped to take either 8 or 6mm hose. I've seen others have run 8mm all the way thru...any benefit for going larger (or keeping to the existing).

In terms of hose I was going to go with 5.5mm Fuel Hose from Brikwerks not cheap at £12/m but given its the fuel lines don't want to mess around with cheap stuff...is this spec OK ?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/ ... m-eco.html

sburch wrote:Much appreciated Bigherb and Covkid...I have to say I was hoping one or both of you would reply !

Looks like an inquiring mind has got the better of me and I should have just left the pump in place, I'll try and get the bugger back on then !

Re new pump am planning on fitting a Facet 60104 Posi-Flow Fuel pump (low pressure) + Rubber Mounting Kit...connected about 8in after fuel filter. Any recs on hoses ? Was going to keep 8mm line from tank to filter and then via 6mm unions either side of pump run 6mm all the way thru to carbs which already have new 6mm tails off T-piece. No need for any reducers as I believe the filter is stepped to take either 8 or 6mm hose. I've seen others have run 8mm all the way thru...any benefit for going larger (or keeping to the existing).

In terms of hose I was going to go with 5.5mm Fuel Hose from Brikwerks not cheap at £12/m but given its the fuel lines don't want to mess around with cheap stuff...is this spec OK ?

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/ ... m-eco.html

Yes thats a good way of doing it. 6mm pipe is fine, keep the original semi rigid plastic pipe and use 5.5mm and 7mm rubber R9 fuel hose for the connections. Preferably use a metal T piece in the engine bay the plastic ones have been known to go brittle and break. The only disadvantage leaving the fuel pump in place is they can leak oil out of the breather tube.

OK so latest update.

New pump is now nicely connected with new hoses. In terms of electrics I've simply tapped into alternator signal wire for now to test all is OK (relay to be fitted in due course). Old pump back on, inlets to be capped off at some point.

The good news - pump works fine and is quiet...dampened by a couple of the rubber "cotton" reel spacers (the type used to hold the drum in place when transporting a new washing machines...you never know when things might come in handy !).

Needed a little bit of a prime but engine fired up and continues to do so on every start...BUT sounds pretty rough, basic symptoms as follows: -

- when idling the engine seems to be juddering a lot in eng bay...give is some revs and it smooths out and engine stops bouncing around (havn't got to know van enough to appreciate if this is "normal")
- intermittent backfire, nothing very loud and only when giving a hard burst of revs (more a bark)
- during test drive it seemed to struggle a bit in terms of acceleration (plus everyone heard me coming down the road !)

One other key point is that before the fuel pump went the engine had already started to cough a little...obviously I'd hoped the primary contributor was the fuel pump which a new one would fix...however it sounds even worse now...I guess the new pump might be exaggerating an underlying problem ?

Neighbor (Type 2 owner) thinks it might be timing.

Before I succumb to taking it to a specialist I'd like to have a go at diagnosing/fixing myself (relative but capable novice !). Before I get too carried about and start looking at timing what other things should I investigate first - a basic checklist of steps which might be more obvious cause/culprits.

Thx

Stuart

How old are the leads? They'll give symptoms like that. Its OK to leave pump on alternator wire as a temporary measure but remember ighnition light has to go out for pump to work (which it doesn't when cranking) so reliant on whats left in carb to fire. When I start mine I blip the throttle to make sure light goes off and we're away.

Thx Covkid.

Latest update, possibly getting closer to primary cause...

With help from friendly (mechanic) neighbor, started engine up and removed plugs leads one at a time...got expected misfires on both L.Hand leads but no difference on both R.Hand side..so looks like only running on 2 cyclinders ?

Next removed the inlet elbow on R.Hand carb and put hand over ...van noticeable quietens down, stops rocking around and idle nicely. Does this suggest some sort of fuel blockage somewhere ?

Judging by what I've read next step is to remove carb and check for any gunk in bowl or valve. Sound logical ?

Make sure you have a c arb kit if you do. I found the additional pressure from an electric pump can be too much for float valve, causing flooding. A new valve sorts that. Worth replacing in my view. All costs I know.

Any recommendations on carb refit kits e.g.

https://vwheritage.mobi/GB/productDetai ... mID=109252" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have seen others kits and they seem to vary in what's included, anything not in this kit that I need ?

...engine is 1.9CU twin carb solex 32-34 PDIST

Nope. Would seem to have the important stuff. A key thing to check on those carbs is up and down movement on (lower) throttle flap shafts. Any movement and air can get in which makes tuning a right pig. If its bad, you'll need to get those rebushed.

Remember when you replace O rings on mixture/idle screws to count the number of turns if you remove screws so they go back as before. Chances are the accelerator diaphrams are past their best which will produce inconsistent acceleration performance too.