Club 80-90 Forums

I've not met any of the people who have contributed to my threads on this forum.

Looking over my recent threads, I realise I do whine quite a lot about my van problems. I'm honestly not like that in real life (much)



A while ago now, I purchased a used Dj engine from syncropatrick with the intention of stripping it down, seeing how the engine actually works and then, maybe, rebuilding it. I got as far as getting the top end stripped and even vapour blasted the heads to see what they looked like. At the time I thought they were in great nick, only to re-examine them (armed with a bit more knowledge from looking at photos and reading rebuild threads) and realise that the small cracks between the valve seats are probably just going to cause problems in the long run. I put the project down at that point since my existing engine seemed to be working ok (K-seal temporary cure only) and the entire rebuild process looked a lot more difficult that I was happy to attempt at that point. Still, needs must etc. so I'm wondering if this partially stripped, but reportedly still good (Patrick reckoned it was starting to show a little white/blue smoke under strong load, but otherwise ok and not consuming large amounts of oil) engine can be rebuilt by a novice mechanic?


I am after a reliable solution and the risk of putting heads back in even with minor flaws doesn't seem like the best way to go. Also, I nicked on of the pistons taking it out so definitely need at least one new piston. The good news is that all the head studs look to be in great condition, with no corrosion and I think maybe only one of the exhaust studs will need replacing.

So many other problems have come along since then, I had virtually forgotten about this engine and as my DG engine is now borked this might be the best (if not necessarily the easiest or cheapest) way to get back on the road. I'd go for the 2.1 running or my existing carb setup.

I've blown the cobwebs off the case now and will this week try and get it apart. My local friendly garage (non VW) has offered to get the parts inspected for me at the machine shop they use in Oldham to check the case, pistons, barrels, liners,crankshaft and camshaft.

I think at the very least, I will need new heads, and possibly new pistons and barrels.


I've read a number of threads that suggest a proper overhaul of a wbx engine runs to thousands and thousands of pounds - am I insane to try this or can it be done by a novice without breaking the bank?

Gasket set is 100 quid, I'd just put it back together and drive it, maybe get a second hand piston and barrel pair if the damage warrants it ( get pic up).

cost of a gasket set is minimal to the cost of a proper rebuild and may last for years as it is.

Whats wrong with the dg?

Thanks itchy.

My DG overheats regularly and was diagnosed on Saturday with a positive sniff test in the coolant

I'm gonna finish taking the DJ apart, it was very dirty when I began stripping it down and it's been sat for a while in my shed so I'd like it all cleaned up before putting it back together. I'll take a pic of the piston tonight.

Iain

Ok so the DG is probably repairable also, does it still drive or does it pressurise syatem?

It does still drive, but gradually pressurises the system until all the water in the rad is forced out - I've seen the expansion tank looking like it's about to buckle and leaking from the cap although I can usually catch it in time before it gets to that stage now.

I'd put the DJ heads (they are the same) on the best bottom end, gasket set as Itchyfeet says is around a ton and get running it. Cracks between the valve seats are pretty normal on these monkey metal heads.

Ian

You can't tell which is the best bottom end without stripping and measuring, then you say while I'm in here may as well change cam and tappets and the cost spirals for an engine that may only do a few thousand miles a year.

I'd leave bottom end on both (unless you have knocking or very low oil pressure), do top end on DJ and put it in
once running strip heads off DG, assuming head studs don't snap on DG you can reseal at leisure and sell or keep as spare incase DJ turns out to be a duffer after a while.

Test oil pressure on DG before removing.

Is DG early or late, how many oil pressure switches?

Thanks guys.

The bottom end of the dj has been sitting in the shed unwashed and uncovered. I think it came off a synchro and it is still a bit caked in mud in places. I can see a fair bit of dirt in the cavity where the oil tower was and can only assume that dust and dirt has crept into the other exposed bits too.

I do also intend to use the van as much as possible once it's reliable enough, our current lack of use as a camper (totalling a week in France, and a handful of weekends in Wales in just over two years) is certainly not for the want of trying to get away regularly.

Here are some pics of the dj bits I've stripped so far.




I nicked this when I removed it.



Damaged exhaust valve guide. The other other 3 are a bit better but still look very tired.

Sounds like you wan't to rebuild this, if so why not do the head seals on the DG quick and cheap so you have a runner until you get the funds, knoledge and time to do the DJ properly.
if you are not careful you could spend lot of money and still not have a running van this time next year.

Looking again at the heads, there's only one exhaust stud intact, one broken off one right near the manifold and the rest are all helicoiled.

I never noticed this before...but since I've now put helicoiled exhaust studs into my current dg engine its bleeding obvious.

itchyfeet wrote:
Test oil pressure on DG before removing.

Is DG early or late, how many oil pressure switches?

It's an early DG so just the one I think.

Sorry fella. I missed your reply about doing the heads on the dg as a stopgap.

If the head studs on the dg come out with no issues that might be the best solution.