Club 80-90 Forums

Hi,

I've read a number of posts on the Solex 12V auto chokes but couldn't fine one that covered dismantling and repair. Both my choke units (from a 2.0l CU Aircooled) have broken male spade contacts but appear to work. See below.


I could solder a new male spade contactor on but this is not ideal and, anyway, the previous owner has already done this on one unit; the whole connector and insulation is now loose. Besides, I'd like to hold a couple of spares in case my originals fail! and given they are like hens teeth, my best chance is to repair broken units.

Has any one dismantled this type before?

The picture shows "A" the part that needs to be removed to gain access to the copper rivets at the back. Although this looks like a slotted screw, I suspect its part of the aluminum body and is riveted over.


Had a little problem with the picture placement but should be clear enough

Tks Chris

Doubt you'll find much if anything on dismantling. Can of worms. If it were me I'd use a gas soldering iron and just create new male connectors. Any looseness can be rectified with metal putty. Its a bi-metallic spring which doesn't like being messed with. Providing it closes then gradually opens the choke, it will be doing its job. Not saying it can't be done, its just a headache.

I would avoid metal putty, as it may be electrically conductive, this will give you a problem with a possible short, just use a good epoxy or two part putty without the metal filler bit.

Yes sorry, hurried reply. I meant the two-part stuff. 99p stores seem to sell it now too. Used it on so many things I've lost track. Versatile stuff.

Thanks for your thoughts. I'd still like to try and repair a unit - If I keep the carbs I will have to at some point anyway!
I'll try experimenting on a broken unit first and then my originals. I'll post the results

Cheers

Its been a very long time since I attempted this (would have been in the 80s) but my memories of it were of a somewhat fragile unit. Its very easy to break the ceramic that the heated coil behind the bi-metallic sits on so you'll need to go really carefully. I suppose back then, new ones were relatively easy to get so I didn't see the point in repeating the exercise. Things have changed somewhat.

Look forward to your results although if you don't post back, you may have hit the problems I did and will keep quiet.

The other thing to consider is that 25 years use has an impact on the responsiveness of the bi-metallic coil so even if repaired, it may not perform anywhere near as well as a new one might have done.