Club 80-90 Forums

My van has a DF engine and my 90 amp alternator is knackered. Can anybody suggest a reliable supplier please? I know quality has varied over time. Brickwerks are out of stock. JK supply Hella recon units. VW Heritage supply Hella too. ECP have an RTX option available. Are they any good? I want something that lasts. Cheers.

was the 90 amp an original fitting or did you get it fitted?,have wondered about fitting one

No idea mate. It was on the camper when I got it. Might have been a westie option? Brickwerks advise that you need a new/different bracket if you do decided to fit one

Ralf85 wrote:No idea mate. It was on the camper when I got it. Might have been a westie option? Brickwerks advise that you need a new/different bracket if you do decided to fit one

Westfalia didn't fit alternators.
I would suggest you take it to an Alternator/starter motor refurbisher, and keep it original.

Can I ask how you arrived at the "knackered" diagnosis?

[quote="kevtherevWestfalia didn't fit alternators.
I would suggest you take it to an Alternator/starter motor refurbisher, and keep it original.
Can I ask how you arrived at the "knackered" diagnosis?[/quote]
Yes mate. I checked my battery with my voltage meter a couple of days ago and it was only charging at about 13.6 volts max on tickover. I revved the engine and there was no increase in voltage (I changed the regulator pack last year to a 14.5V pack). So I was a bit concerned. Last night, I drove home and as I was parking I noticed that the battery light was glowing very dimly on tickover. When I revved up it went out again, but came back on tickover. This morning, I tried to start up and nothing happened. I heard a click but the engine did not turn at all. Nothing. Checked the battery again and it showed 12.3V. I have brought the battery (only a year old) in today and am charging it up.
I don't know how long the alternator was fitted when I bought the van 8 years ago. Any thoughts?
Tomorrow I will drop the battery back in and see if the engine turns over.

A severely corroded (or even broken) cable/lug along the battery-starter-alternator line could also cause this too though.

That could be the case, thanks. Is there any other likely cause?

I'm assuming the worst, I guess. The problem I have is I don't have the expertise or the facilities to check this out and I no longer have a tame garage, to check the cabling over. If the van does start tomorrow, I'll take it to a recommended auto electric firm nearby. Thanks again.

Simple check is to measure the voltage on the large terminal on the back of the alternator at a fast tickover. With your new brush pack it should be around 14 Volts.

ghost123uk wrote:Simple check is to measure the voltage on the large terminal on the back of the alternator at a fast tickover. With your new brush pack it should be around 14 Volts.

If the engine starts ok, I'll check that out. Cheers John.

So, I charged up the battery and put it back in the van. Turned the key (new ignition switch installed January 2015), a click from a relay and nothing. So, maybe the corroded cable option suggested by Covkid (starter motor has been in since 2008). Still got the problem of getting it to the auto electric shop! I will let you know what happens.

Could be relay contacts not good, braided wire into starter from solenoid corroded or broken, or worn brushes. Try giving the starter a light tap on its side with a hammer. May just get you started fella. Otherwise you'll prob have to bump start if you're not able to investigate.

Breakdown guy turned up. Checked battery, then tried to switch on. There is the usual click when dashboard lights come on. Then when he turned the key to start there was another click.
His assessment was that there was a fault with the relay on the back of the fuse box, as the second click was breaking the circuit, so power was not getting to the starter motor. My question is, which of the relays do I replace? I know I have a relay under the left hand seat next to the leisure battery. Could that be the cause?
I have checked the wiki and previous posts on this topic and remain confused. The one the breakdown guy identified operates the hazard warning lights. Is that correct? Cheers.

I think there should be a click from the relays, the "x relay" is energised when the ignition key is in the starting position, this is what turns off wipers, heater blower, etc when starting the engine so that the starter motor gets the full battery output. If you are having both charging and starting problems then the heavy cable between the battery and engine compartment must be suspect as it is common to both problems.

Cheers. There is definitely a charging problem, but I'll try a replacement relay to see if that allows me to start up. Whether it does or doesn't start, I will be taking the van to an auto electric shop to sort out the underlying problem. I will report back with the results. Thanks guys.

Replacing the X relay won't fix it.

You just need to check with your meter and an assistant where power is, or is not getting to, re that big fat cable and the relay on the starter motor (known as the solenoid) etc.