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HT leads
Posted: 18 Apr 2015, 12:57
by Caveman1
Hurro all,i need new ht leads for my 1989 t25 1.9dg but havent a clue what ones to get,seen so many on the web my head is now spinning,so any help,advice,offers would be great. Thanks
Re: HT leads
Posted: 18 Apr 2015, 13:17
by CovKid
On something as 'agricultural' as these engines, baseline lead seat will be fine. Performance leads are just wasted (and so is your money in my experience). However, before you leave the shop (if you collect locally) - ensure they fit. Thats mainly why I won't buy online when it comes to leads. If they're wrong or theres a problem with them, its a right faff getting them exchanged plus you can end up paying two or even three lots of postage. Both GSF and Euro Car Parts carry them.
Re: HT leads
Posted: 18 Apr 2015, 17:38
by California Dreamin
Woh Ralph, it's not often I disagree with you but in the case of wasser boxer leads they absolutely need to be quality and preferable OEM (Bosch or Beru) but then I think you are talking 'standard OEM and not fancy silicon' which is spot on advice.
But can we establish why they are being changed? as unlike other vehicles these use 'solid copper core' HT lead and NOT carbon impregnated fibre glass string. The reason that this is important is that solid 'Copper' HT lead rarely breaks down where as impregnated leads do, and if there is an issue, its generally with the spark plug caps and not the leads themselves.
As I've pointed out in several previous posts, if the 'metal shrouds' are 'arcing out' and the spark is going to ground (the usual fault when dropping a cylinder) Then the fix is just to cut off the metal plug caps and fit some NGK straight 'screw on' replacements....really cheap at under £11 for a set of 4.
Read this thread..about 5 posts down.
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... s#p8009178" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
These caps..10 minute job to fit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-NGK-Resist ... 4ac0970d44" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
Re: HT leads
Posted: 18 Apr 2015, 19:54
by CovKid
Spot on. I don't know about you Martin, but having bought parts at both trade and punter prices over 30 years, some things have gone up outrageously in that time. Starter motors, HT leads and gasket sets noticeably. I think unfortunately parts of the VW supply chain have become embroiled in the modern trend to charge as much as possible, despite the real value and costs in production. I rarely buy gaskets actually, they're an item that has a price tag out of all proportion, but I can usually make one really easily. HT leads are just something you have to cough up for but yes, OEM, not fancy ones.
Re: HT leads
Posted: 21 Apr 2015, 20:28
by vanhatter
California Dreamin wrote:Then the fix is just to cut off the metal plug caps
Idiot question here - is the only way to get the old caps off to cut the cable? I know for the caps that you recommend you just push the new ones on, but I bought the ones from brickwerks
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/h ... l?___SID=U" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - is it the same deal?
cheers!
Re: HT leads
Posted: 22 Apr 2015, 11:26
by California Dreamin
They just screw off mate... (Pull & screw off....Push and screw on) threaded stud in the cap mates with 'DIN' terminal (think its called that).
I've never been a fan of these 'metal shrouded' spark plug caps, they are made this way for surpression purposes (to stop radio interference) however, the metal makes a great pathway to ground (cylinder head) and VW actually issued a bulletin at one time to main dealers, to advising their technicians to cut off the shrouds when faults involving misfires and dropping cylinders presented themselves.
Martin
Re: HT leads
Posted: 26 Apr 2015, 15:37
by vanhatter
You're right Martin, they do just pull off. The 1st one I tried was a bit stuck, enough to make me question whether it was supposed to be pulled out or if I'd just break it. I did end up pulling the insulation off the end of the lead as it decided to stay in the old cap. The others came off easier though. You make a good point about them but I've not had any trouble re backfiring / dropping cylinders with the old rusty ones, so touch wood the new ones will be fine too. Something to keep in mind though.
Thanks

Re: HT leads
Posted: 26 Apr 2015, 22:11
by California Dreamin
I'm sure they will be fine..just making the point that the 'metal shroud' itself is nothing more than a radio suppressor and can OFFICIALLY be removed if the metal is causing arcing to ground (sparks jumping between the cap and cylinder head).
Martin
Re: HT leads
Posted: 27 Apr 2015, 06:58
by ghost123uk
Just to add a note:- I have a CB radio in my van so I keep the metal shrouds on. Without them one gets an annoying interference when listening to anything but very strong signals. To date I have not had a problem with them shorting the sparks, but I am aware it can happen, though I suspect only if summat else is not right, ie knackered plugs (as we know, electricity takes the easiest route to earth, and that
should be the gap on the spark plugs electrodes

)
Re: HT leads
Posted: 27 Apr 2015, 07:55
by itchyfeet
Yep never felt the need to remove mine
good to know we are 'officially' allowed to.
Re: HT leads
Posted: 28 Apr 2015, 20:31
by vanhatter
Veering away from the original post a bit now, but still relevant I think:
When I took the old caps off, there was this greenish wet stuff on the terminals
old HT terminal.jpg
Any idea what this is?
(I broke the old connector (orange bit) to make sure I could get the terminal out / not strip any more leads)
Cheers

Re: HT leads
Posted: 29 Apr 2015, 07:57
by California Dreamin
The 'Green' would be something to do with the copper 'core' of the HT lead...the wetness probably indicates some water ingress past the rubber seal.
Martin
Re: HT leads
Posted: 29 Apr 2015, 13:23
by vanhatter
That makes sense. Good job I replaced them then!
Cheers