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2L Aircooled t25 stalling on accelleration

Posted: 18 Mar 2015, 11:44
by Bilson
My 1981 aircoold t25 has recently started wanting to stall in low revs, it idles ok, but pulling away on the flat needs gas as if it's on a hill.

Before the van ran fine, but hadn't been started for a couple months, and wouldn't start when I went to do so, the fuel pump was noise, but no fuel going anywhere, replaced filter, fuel moving fine from tank, still no fuel to enginge though, so it's had a new fuel pump which got it running.

Now it starts, I've been told that the stalling's probably caused by the automatic choke sticking, and that it would sort itself out once it was warmed up. However, on my way back from the garage it didn't improve, and I ran the engine for 30 mins on the drive the other day, and the problem remained.

That's roughly as concise as I think things need to be put, so any helpful suggestions, criticism, mockery etc would be most welcome.

Hopeful thanks in advance.

Re: 2L Aircooled t25 stalling on accelleration

Posted: 19 Mar 2015, 11:15
by CovKid
Could be lots of things. Is the vacuum unit on distributor working? How old are your ignition leads. plugs etc.

Re: 2L Aircooled t25 stalling on accelleration

Posted: 19 Mar 2015, 15:55
by Bilson
I'm afraid I don't know about the vacum unit, is there a simple way for me to find out? I think the plugs were last changed about six years ago, and I think the leads may have been done at the same time.

Re: 2L Aircooled t25 stalling on accelleration

Posted: 20 Mar 2015, 19:25
by Bilson
just been wondering whether an underpowered fuel pump could cause the problems I'm having? read elsewhere on here that 4.0-6.0 PSI pump is most suitable. Seeming as though these problems have only started after fitting new pump, just thought it might be a possibility if the new one which isn't moving enough fuel?

Re: 2L Aircooled t25 stalling on accelleration

Posted: 20 Mar 2015, 19:42
by CovKid
Well it could be but you can't guess at it or you'll spend a lot of money trying to find the fault.

Remove rotor arm from distributor (so it won't actually start) and pulling fuel hose from carb/s, put the end in a jar and see how much fuel is delivered cranking the engine over. You need to rule out obvious things first so start with fuel delivery. Ignition leads that are slowly breaking down can also cause this so it needs a methodical approach. We can try to guide you a little.