Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,
Ever since I have had my van there has been an annoying banging when I hit a bump in the road coming from the pop top. I have established that it is the passenger side (LHD) pivot mechanism hitting the roof. On closer inspection I have found that the passenger side seems to be far closer to the roof (almost touching) than the drivers side. See the pictures below:


Passenger side


Drivers Side

I have also noticed that the rubber seal that fits against the wind deflector on the top of the roof is not pulled tight on the passenger side so I am guessing that there is some sort of failure in the way that the passenger side of the mechanism is working? Has anybody else had this issue and rectified it? If so what did you do to solve. Also, I am not happy with the locking mech as its gone pretty rusty and is bleeding into the flocking on the roof.



After spending several nights away over the last few days I know it's going to be staring me in the face during the summer get aways so I feel I need to look at a plan for refurbishing one or two items to make good. Can anybody suggest weather I should get the items powder coated, stove enamelled or just plain painted?

Thanks in advance

Andy

Check that there's nothing obvious preventing the roof from closing properly on that side. Maybe there's something jamming in between the two 'scissor arms' of the H bar, or the damper isn't compressing completely. Check all the bolts are in place and done up properly. If nothing, check that the scissor arms are actually straight. Use a metal ruler or level to make sure they're straight. Does the hinge work properly? Make sure that it is still turning as well when it's almost closed, as at other times. It might be worn and catching (inside the hinge itself) so not allowing the arms to go that final inch or so.
It has to be a physical thing, preventing the final closure, so try closing the lid slowly, and listen and feel for the when the contact occurs. My feeling is that either one of the arms is bent, or the hinge is worn inside, and jamming at that critical point.
Re the catch plate - take if off, clean it up, and repaint it with some anti-rust paint, then spray it the right colour. It looks like the water is leaking in through the bolt holes, so take the bolts out, fill them with Sikaflex, then push the bolts back through.

Move the bottom of the H bar forward. That should stop the banging and move it away from the roof.

It looks twisted, one side is resting on the van body and the other on the grey westy trim. It should rest on the trim on both sides. My H bar did the same but it had a groove worn into the end of the bar and didn't sit straight when popped. If yours sits straight it probably just needs persuading into position. I could be wrong but that it what it looks like in the photo.

Cheers
David

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did post the same elsewhere and somebody has suggested that the inner part of the hinge may have worn and need modification to make good. I am going to look at the extensive list you guys have suggested first though as the other route requires a total strip down to check.

Thanks again

If you have a lok at my thread 'just bought a Westfalia roof' in the Bodywork section, there's a picture showing the damage that can occur inside the hinge of these roofs. The mechanism wears a slot in the uprights, and it can be big enough to put the whole frame out of alignment.

Thanks for the link tforturton. Very interesting (don't think mine has worn the way yours did.

Well today I have made a start and striped out the H Bar. Bit more awkward than I thought. The bottom bracket would have been much easier to remove if it had captive nuts in the bodywork to eliminate the need to strip off half of the aircraft style furniture to get to the spinning nut below . I'm going to inspect clean and have it re painted light grey instead of the beige before re installation. Can anybody explain the difference between powder coating and stove enamelling, and which one would be best to use to have the components done in?

Thanks in advance

Andy

nordberg wrote:Thanks for the link tforturton. Very interesting (don't think mine has worn the way yours did.

Well today I have made a start and striped out the H Bar. Bit more awkward than I thought. The bottom bracket would have been much easier to remove if it had captive nuts in the bodywork to eliminate the need to strip off half of the aircraft style furniture to get to the spinning nut below . I'm going to inspect clean and have it re painted light grey instead of the beige before re installation. Can anybody explain the difference between powder coating and stove enamelling, and which one would be best to use to have the components done in?

Thanks in advance

Andy

Personally I'd go with powder coating if its an option, as its will last longer than stove enamel, plus better against corrosion because of the way it is put on etc....

heres a link i found, maybe of use.

http://www.windridge.co.uk/content.php/444

Cob20 wrote:
Personally I'd go with powder coating if its an option, as its will last longer than stove enamel, plus better against corrosion because of the way it is put on etc....

heres a link i found, maybe of use.

http://www.windridge.co.uk/content.php/444

We have a local company called millenium site services that I have used before. They do Powder Coating so I think I will go with that option based on the info you have just posted up Cob20

I did power coating on mine. Local shop in Reading two years ago. Don't remember how much I paid. Looked even worse that yours. After two years still looks like new. Well worth it.
Before

Sand blasted and powder coated.

Just called the local powder coaters. Just got to drop the bits in and they will sort for me Going to get some spangly stainless steel bolts to finish the job off as well.

Got Bus Types coming up so hope to have it sorted for then

As you have a westie, while you are taking the roof parts apart, why not replace the single vent pop-top canvas with a three vent replacement from Gunzl (or elsewhere). This gives you the option of better air flow in the Summer. The side vents also allow you to cook safely with gas when it's raining as you can part open them for ventilation and the roof overhang helps to keep the rain out. The front vent cannot be used in this way. Three vent canvas was fitted to T2 westies (I used to have one), but for some reason they were not fitted as standard to T3s like ours. That was a retrograde step, which you can remedy.

Ralf85 wrote:As you have a westie, while you are taking the roof parts apart, why not replace the single vent pop-top canvas with a three vent replacement from Gunzl (or elsewhere). This gives you the option of better air flow in the Summer. The side vents also allow you to cook safely with gas when it's raining as you can part open them for ventilation and the roof overhang helps to keep the rain out. The front vent cannot be used in this way. Three vent canvas was fitted to T2 westies (I used to have one), but for some reason they were not fitted as standard to T3s like ours. That was a retrograde step, which you can remedy.

Ralf, I have plans to have the roof canvas changed for a GoWesty one supplied by Campervan Culture. I think I am going to get Jed to install it for me as I don't really have anywhere dry to work on the van myself

Cool. Are you going for canvas or synthetic 'canvas'?

Wow, amazing. How did you do it?