Club 80-90 Forums

Evening All ,

1984 1,9 DG W/C

Discovered both Drop Links had sheared years ago judging from corrosion on
both broken Links , only went under to check Tie Rod Boot , MOT advisory .

Trawled Wicki and Forums but still not too certain regarding torquing up to 30nm ,
when to torque on Jack/Axle stands or with van with both wheels on the ground ?

Today removed Anti Roll Bar and broken Links all together without lifting van , or removing wheels ,removed
Bushes and Sleeves and will clean all seating faces and Sleeve bores tomorrow .

Is it feasible to reinstall the complete Anti Roll Bar and Links without jacking and removing wheels ?
I ask this as I've lent my Axle Stands and Jack which are in use ,with a mate , geeeeeeeeez

Thanks ,
Atb,
Chris

In a word, yes. I think I used a trolley jack for part of it though (jacking up one corner if I remember rightly) but that may be because I'm no slim Jim. If you have to push the bar up to replace clamps, you could probably wedge it in place with a stout bit of wood.

Thanks CovnKid , sorry I haven't replied till now .

Was a Grand Dad for first time on Tues. morning and since then going backwards
and forwards to Liverpool visiting our lovely grand daughter !

Was a bit like steering a boat the other windy night on M62 , but doing ok..

Hope to get Drop Links and Anti Roll Bar back on van Mon/Tues .
Atb,
Chris

Drop links make a huge difference. It leaves the vehicle unstable on sharp corners and is like driving around in an old rickety armchair. I found a good source for droplinks on ebay - keep meaning to fit them. Mine are OK but only because I tapped and fitted studs to the old ones a while back. The new ones are HD.

Both of my anti roll bar drop links sheered off when I went over a hump, I took the anti roll bar off and got rid of it, I haven't noticed a bit of difference. New tie rod ends and stiffer shocks help with roll and wind buffeting though!

Whilst you can drive a vehicle (from a technical point of view) without the anti roll bar, the roll on corners is pronounced, particularly on something heavy like a T25. I wouldn't want to have to brake sharp under those conditions, plus it is now 'modified' and that can render your insurance invalid. If it was fitted with one, it should be there and working. Its only when you have a fitted ARB with all bushes in place that you realise just how much difference it makes to handling and less chance of busting springs. Vw did extensive testing of their vehicles. The ARB isn't there by fluke.

The only reason you probably haven't noticed the difference is because at least one of the retaining nuts and washers were probably broken/missing when you got it. Try driving one with an ARB fitted and you'll wonder why ever you put up with driving without one. When mine went one side it positively made me feel sick to drive around and fast cornering was a hair-raising experience.

Your MOT tester should fail it too as if the vehicle was fitted with one (which it was), removing it makes it defective.

Our syncro has gone through mot without arb fitted several times. Its the "if not fitted, cannot be tested" loophole.
However it should all be there for safe handling.
Find a local engineering shop to drill and tap the ends, so you can fit with high tensile studding. Fixed.

Depends on the tester. If they know their stuff and that they came as standard, they can fail it on that and within their rights to. However, equally they may not. I've had that conversation with testers quite a few times. Some will, some won't - nor will those that deem them 'fitted when new' budge on it. Either way they handle like an absolute pig without them. Where you might not want one is offroad (possibly) but on the tarmac they're definately better with than without. I've tried both - chalk and cheese.

B&B do droplinks and they're stronger than the originals. Mind you, you need to be Popeye to get them on unless: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oXY68F8Uwo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I suppose i wouldn't mind putting it back. I know it was all present and correct before they snapped, as I changed the bushes over, so I am wondering why did the snap? I don't want to spend £200 odd for it to happen again. It has gone through 2 mots since and I find braking and cornering fine but then I do seem to put myself through suffering for no reason..

Like for example, I drove my van around for 8 years with the engine running like a pig, then I had it tuned by someone I know for £5 two years back and now its sweet as a nut.

On the anti roll bar, when I refitted some new drop link bushes, it really was ridiculously difficult to put the drop links in and bolt them down on the suspension arm. I'm wondering if something wasn't quite right or is that normal?

Yeah, can be. You have to leave at least one upper ARB main upper bush undone to give you room to fasten droplink bushes/washers/nuts then with the help of an extra jack, get the ARB in place and bolt it up. Not quite as awkward as engine mounts but a bit of a faff.

What tends to happen with a defunct one is you either accept it as normal (particularly if it was like that when you got it) or you gradually get used to it but you do end up having to touch the brakes just before negating a sharp turn and/or adapting your driving to the lack of one. You don't realise you're even doing it. It can happen gradually. Roundabouts particularly can really slow you up. Once the front is stiffened with the ARB, you won't lean over quite so much on the front corners and it'll feel more sure-footed. I leave the hatchbacks behind on most roundabouts.

You shouldn't need to spend £200. Got mine for about £80 with all the bushes, sleeves, cup washers etc. Got them here: http://www.bandbcomponents.com/page/parts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (may need to ring them). Definately stouter than ones that came off.

Are yours straight or cranked?

Both listed on this page: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... =&_sacat=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Mine are the cranked ones.

So weird though why they sheered off like that, both snapped just above the bushes in the same place.

They all snap there because the step in diameter is a stress raiser.
Defo agree that driving a T3 without the arb fitted is sketchy at best.

Sketchy

Nicely put.

Yep, straight or cranked they usually corrode away until they snap. New ones should last a good few years though.

Just doing some research to find the cheapest drop links etc. Veedubmachine sell 2 cranked links for £50 but you have to purchase all the bushes and washer cups separately. B&b sell the drop links complete with bushes and washer cups for £50 each. Why are the powerflex bushes so expensive???