Club 80-90 Forums

Evening all,

I seem to remember reading somewhere that when replacing your exhaust it's a good idea to replace the engine mountings at the same time? Is this the case or am I making it up?
Cheers folks

I think your making it up! And ...2 15??
You live in Porto, wonderful
Mind you its 3 10 now

Its just easier to replace mountings when exhaust is off (more room) - not that you should. Worth checking them though. They can look fine but the rubber no longer bonded to the metal.

Mine looked fine, but like you say, they'd debonded so were changed. Pennies really.

I glued mine as I couldn't get replacement ones ( we were in India though).

I guess you could with superglue. Don't see why not.

Still think its unfair you're in Almeria..... Gosh, mini hollywood. Dead envious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b__itYJkcsE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi Cov,at least you can buy parts for a reasonable price..
Sun is out n 21 deg c !!

Use a jack with an large piece of wood under the engine to spread the load...just lift slightly to take the weight...you will clearly see if the 'bond' on the metalastic mounts has failed or not....as others have said, they appear fine 'BECAUSE' the weight of the engine is pushing the mount together...that is 'UNTIL' the torsional effect of the engine under load is applied.

Martin

Its amazing how long they last like that though. Usually you get symtoms though, like juddering if reversing up a moderate incline which gets on your wick after a while.

Engine mounts are on my to do list. the rubber on the g/box mount looked like it was cracking and had perished. Are these easy to do?

CovKid wrote:I guess you could with superglue. Don't see why not.

My first car when I was an apprentice was a 1958 Ford Prefect. The rear engine/gearbox mount came apart, the rubber came away from the metal plate on one side. I cleaned it with thinners, glued it with superglue and clamped it in a vice overnight. It worked fine!

Engine mounts are on my to do list. the rubber on the g/box mount looked like it was cracking and had perished. Are these easy to do?

I did mine this week. The gearbox mount was very easy. Van rear up on ramps, jack and wood under g/box, took about an hour to remove and replace.

The engine bearers took rather longer. I found it helped to remove the crankshaft and water pump pulleys to get easy access to the mount top nuts.
I also dropped the silencer so I could see what I was doing. The bearer to chassis bolts were rusty so a bit tedious to remove, everything else came apart readily.
I needed to use a length of timber to prop the bearer up whilst I re-inserted the bearer to chassis bolts.
Total time, including running a die over some of the rusty bolts was around 5 hours, with coffee breaks. I am old and work slowly; I'm sure an ace mechanic could do it in 3 hours.

The rubber on one outer mounting was 80% detached from the backing plate; the gearbox mount was starting to come away from its metal surround.

What were the symptoms? No juddering, but a coolant leak from the thermostat/head joint which only occured at startup.
And now the exhaust tailpipe doesn't knock on the body. result!
jp

Wow! 5 hours

The book time is under 2 hours.
What you do need though is a single hex flexible socket like this:




Martin

Amen to that. I had that issue on a Sunday once and in desperation had to buy a cheap £1 shop mini socket set. Got me out of trouble though.

Book time under 2 hours - well I did say I am old & slow.
It would be a lot quicker with the van up on a lift;
and a pro wouldn't waste time cleaning up old fasteners - just fit new ones

jp