Club 80-90 Forums

I've just fitted a tow bar to my 86 van which was a very simple job removing the bumper, bolting a few bits of metalwork in place and putting the bumper back (with a cut to allow it fit over the tow bar).

The next bit is to do the electrics for which I've got a simple kit with a pre-wired 12N connector and a few other bits:



The black component is a combined relay and sounder for the indicators.

Those nasty scotch lock connectors are however not finding their way into my wiring loom as I want a much more reliable solution. The area behind the rear light cluster is exposed to the elements more than most vehicles so I don't think they are going to be good long term.

So I'm wondering what others have done to make a tidy and reliable wiring solution for the trailer lights?

I'm wondering about something like this:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... nction-box" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I cut the loom and used wago orange spring lever connectors, then I used a thick clear plastic bag and cable ties around to keep the water out.

Shame to spoil souch a tidy engine bay with a bag when there are tonnes of automotive junction boxes on the market. For the benefit of others, I was going to put an eBay link up but........failed because I'm a retard like that!

Prefer a bag thanks, you can see inside if its wet
Clear junction boxes are rare and yet to find one that seals on single wires anyway.
Not interested in potting it either as I want to be able to maintain it, gel potting is like snot, horrible stuff.

unlike some my van is functional, if I run somebody over I don't care if they don't like the look of my plastic bag around my wiring

Barbed comment not missed!!!

Rubberite and the likes do jb's with a clear front and don't fill up with water which is why they're used on trucks and tractors.

Going to stAeprt calling you a 'monthly', at least I'm a 'daily'. Touché!

what2d wrote:
Rubberite and the likes do jb's with a clear front and don't fill up with water which is why they're used on trucks and tractors.

Good tip there

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubbolite-Jun ... 3a9a0e11b5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUBBOLITE-JUN ... 35db305ebd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

just becuase I'm happy with a low cost solution doesn't mean others will be

One here with screw terms and one without that could be used with wago maintenance free spring connectors

I'm sure you will be fitting one in place of those dodgy electrics on your tow bar

I just spliced mine in to the black box at the back in engine bay.

CovKid wrote:I just spliced mine in to the black box at the back in engine bay.

Yes seen that done but its cramped in there.

Can be. You do need to work tidy but got mine in and lid shuts fine. No need for bags or junction boxes then. You could always fit a slightly bigger box there if you wanted to.

Thanks for the ideas. I have to admit to plastic bag and cable tie type installations in the past which are perfectly functional

However when it comes to my van I'm a bit more fussy even it can't be seen. I'm going to look at what can be done with the existing black box as suggested and failing that I'll go for a rubber junction box.

I'll post a picture of the final solution...

One helpful suggestion I did receive via PM was to use a trailer board which uses led bulbs as takes less load from your wiring.

itchyfeet wrote:

what2d wrote:
Rubberite and the likes do jb's with a clear front and don't fill up with water which is why they're used on trucks and tractors.

I'm sure you will be fitting one in place of those dodgy electrics on your tow bar

Tow bar, I thought that was my rear bumper!!!

whoever did mine well before I had it used scotch locks. Yuk. So far I've replaced one. I like to cut away a ring of insulation about 4mm wide lie the 12n wire along side and solder it. sealing this is the problem although I have used insulating tubing sealed with rubber solution or sika. You can cut the cable you are joining into so you can put some heatshrink over it and then make sure you solder the join perfectly all through.

As CovKid said....the black junction box already mounted at the rear of the engine bay is the best place...it is not exposed to moisture and is in a warm/dry environment.
The best way to connect a wire end to a solid wire is baring back 1 - 1.5cm of sheathing and solderin in the wire..like this.....no cutting of the original wire...just be careful not to allow too much solder flow otherwise you will end up with a 3 - 4cm section of stiff unbending wire.



This type of connection is as good as it gets...a little extra time spent and a thousand percent better than a Scotchlock.

Not wishing to criticise but the connection in a bag is just very poor, using a cable tie each end just isn't going to seal that bag because the bunch of wires will have gaps and mounting underneath makes it much more likely to be subjected to water splashes. Its just not a good idea in my opinion, especially when you consider that there is a junction box already mounted in the engine bay, in a much better position and with plenty of space available for these connections.

Martin

Yep, thats exactly how I did mine as well Martin. Important thing is not to forget to slide on shrink tubing before you solder (easily done). No choc-blocs or scotch connectors, wiring nice and dry and won't fail on you. It also looks right too.

Obviously some second hand or badly-wired tow bars tend to have or come with, a rather short multi-cable but its not too big a job to fit a brand new one and make the connections tidy. Been a while since I did mine but if memory serves me right I fed it up inside the rear apron, ran it around left-hand side of engine bay and used black cable ties to keep it all in place. There is more than enough room in that box to connect as shown.

Well my plastic bag is dry after a year of driving.
Its deliberately clear so it can be inspected but I agree a box is better and I may fit one when the bag fails.

The black box is far too crowded already in my opinion, it's also hard to reach and akward to work in.
many people do not have the skills to solder properly and the sleeve properly, it's common to see sharp peaks from bad soldering cut through sleeve, dry joints that snap off later or wires melted from being soldered too hot, I have seen so much poor soldering from people who claim to be good at it.
so in my opinion it's not a good idea to reccomend it for DIY electrics.

spring loaded maintenance free wago connectors are in my opinion far better than soldering, they can be removed to fault find later and come insulated an idiot can fit them well and safely.

where to place them is up to you abut in my opinion outside the black box in another sealed compartment is best.

of course this is all my opinion