Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all

I'm replacing the rear back plates on the van but can't remove the hub nuts.

I've broken two 1/2" breaker bars trying to shift them, I guess the solution is to cut them off, then I have the problem with tightening them up. If I buy a new 3/4" socket and bar are these going to withstand the force with a scaffold tube on the end or go the same way as the other two?

cheers
Myles

i think most people a 3/4 bar and scaffold, i did on mine anyway

1/2" no good 3/4" definately. The alternative is one of those special spanner tools you can smack with a club hammer, but prefer 3/4" breaker myself. You could ask John Austin at Marks Tey (on the roundabout - Prince of Wales Ind Est) if they will loosen them just a tadge for you then pop the split pins back in, and retighten for you after you've done the work. They're pretty good like that and know VWs and Audis very well.

Worth buying the breaker and socket if you plan to do most of your own repairs though. Couple of 80 80 members in Colchester though - they may have one you can loan.

Defo 3/4" bar.

soak with penetrating fluid overnight preferrably.

Heat the nut

Sometimes tightening up can help get things shifted

Impact Shock the flats of the nut (lump hammer and flat end bar).

Thanks all

Covkid, your knowledge of the Colchester area is very impressive.
Going to take my broken breaker bar back to machine mart and swap for a 3/4". Will need to order a 3/4 socket also.

Tried loads of plus gas overnight, also applied heat, still no joy.

I will report back when I've shifted them.

A 3ft 3/4 breaker bar is enough to do them up...

I've got a 3ft 3/4 torque wrench... Does up hub nuts no bother at all...
Serious over tightening can cause stubs to shear as they're under too much stretch loading.. (I don't know the proper term off the top of my head)

But you can work out the torque using a set of bathroom scales and the length of the breaker bar

3/4" breaker bar, flogging spanner, or a torque multiplier.

I have one of these.Shame you dont live closer,you could borrow it.

If you are really stuck, go down to your local mechanic, get him to get his windy gun on it to undo it and pop it back on only not quite so tight, drive home (very close) and do the job and drive it back when you are done to get it tightened back up again with a couple of packets of chocolate hob knobs

Jed

jed the spread wrote:If you are really stuck, go down to your local mechanic, get him to get his windy gun on it to undo it and pop it back on only not quite so tight, drive home (very close) and do the job and drive it back when you are done to get it tightened back up again with a couple of packets of chocolate hob knobs

Jed

I tried to move mine with a windy gun - no luck at all, had to resort to using a petrol one that is used on the railways. Tightened it up with a torque multiplier but then checked that it was possible to undo with a 4 foot scaffold tube as the multiplier is not mine. One of those jobs that is worth doing do that you can clean and lube in preparation for the day that you actually need to remove them for maintenance.

Hi all

Thanks for the replies, cheers Rob for offering your empi gizmo.

I've got my 3/4 bar, just need the 3/4 socket, will get it on order.

Got the van mot'd today, £29.99 at Halfords. It failed on windscreen wipers and steering rack boot. He didn't mention anything about the nearside Swiss cheese brake backing plate. Not quite so urgent now but would like to get them fitted asap.

Will keep you posted.

Lived there for many years and I taught at Colchester Institute. There used to be a fantasic fella at Wivenhoe called Malcolm Rookes who was brilliant at welding. John Austin - second to none and very reasonably priced in my view.

mrbodly wrote:Covkid, your knowledge of the Colchester area is very impressive.

Copford WIndmill era?

Went to the Windmill one night....lol. Bit of a blur after two hours though.

Sounds about right