Club 80-90 Forums

Hi folks, really quick question, would perished or slightly split vacuum hoses impact on starting (2ltr air cooled) - starter motor turning fine but not catching? Cheers.

A split vac line would mean the mixture would be running weak but I would think the van would still start. The extra fuel from having the chokes on should make up for the extra air being sucked it through a leaking vac hose? Have you checked you're getting a spark and that there's fuel in the carbs?

As above, but do get that servo hose replaced as it is an important part of your braking system

I got a suitable length of servo hose from a crashed Volvo (iirc) at the breakers rather than splash out for the rather expensive genuine article. (note, though I bet you already know this, servo hose is special stuff and you cannot use just any hose that fits)

As Ghost says, use the wrong stuff and it'll squash flat or even melt. In fact all vac hoses tend to be sturdy in construction to prevent collapse.

Thanks folks. I've secured all of the hose ends with jubilee clips and will investigate further later. Problem seems to have gone, so keeping my fingers crossed. Tempremental beasts these vans, especially in this cold damp weather!

Anyway, thanks again for responses, and I hope you have a Happy New Year when it comes!!

Cheers.

Yes happened to me air getting in, slight leak wouldn't tick over and engine (hunted), you only need slight crack or similar to affect the running.

paperhouselad wrote:you only need slight crack or similar to affect the engine

and the brakes

Hi again folks.

All looks well with hoses and ht leads. Problem seems worst when the engine needs choke to start - im guessing that when I'm trying to start the van after it's been sitting a day or so (fully depressing accelerator before turning key) that something's not right with the choke so no fuel and therefore not starting....

I've read various threads on choke problems but, being a bit of a novice to say the least, I very quickly stop understanding what's going on. I don't suppose anyone knows of a video available on the web that would show how to check the correct operation of the auto choke on a 2ltr air cooled (cu) on original twin carbs? I've searched but to no avail.

With a rather hefty bodywork bill on the horizon I'd rather have a go at this myself than spend more money I don't have!!

Big Herb is the one to answer this.
I have to ask though when you depress the acc. have you checked that the choke flaps are closing?

I don't suppose anyone knows of a video available on the web that would show how to check the correct operation of the auto choke on a 2ltr air cooled (cu) on original twin carbs? I've searched but to no avail.

I can't help with a video but the choke operation is pretty straight forward. If you take off the top of the air box and the tubes to the carbs, you can see the choke flaps. Next push the connecting rod between the carbs fully forward. This will make the choke flaps close and lock into place. If this works, next turn on the ignition (don't start the engine). This should put 12v to the auto choke housings which heats up the bi-metallic coil. This will gradually open the chokes up. You should be able to see the choke start to open after a few minutes.

Thanks - I'll get myself out tomorrow morning.

Very much appreciate the help and advice.

I just had a thought. Below is a link to a video I made when I was trying to find out why my left choke was flappin' about wildly. (turned out to be a shagged valve). The vid shows the choke flap "locked" and how it works when you poke it with your finger. You can also see the right-hand choke just starting to open.

http://s1043.photobucket.com/user/Hotel ... ort=3&o=78" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Bah, after a couple of days of faultless starting I'm stuck again. I live on a bit of a hill, so managed to bump start the van - it caught almost instantly. Now I'm out and about and, well, not going anywhere fast.

If it's been starting ok for a couple of days, and started almost instantly with a wee roll down a hill, what do you thinks most likely up.

Should also say it's pretty damp and dreich outside, while the last couple of days, when it's been starting ok, have been dry.

My novice eye isn't spotting anything wrong with leads, choke, etc....

Started!!!!

Could a dodgy connection on the negative side of the battery be in any way to blame?? Would the starter motor still turn, but maybe not generate a great spark??

I really have no idea....

If it bump starts easily and runs OK when started, I would suspect battery, starter motor/ bush or connections between same. Does engine turn over at decent speed on starter?