Club 80-90 Forums

Finally getting to look at my Westy fridge problem from a few weeks back. To recap.

-not running on gas (tank has plenty and hobs work)
-igniter and light not firing
-Works fine on 12v
-works fine on 240v
-I have 12v at the plug under the drawer so the fuse is ok.
-Without taking fridge out the connector at back of gas switch appear to be connected.
Any ideas?

Did you clean up the fuse connections in the small black fuse box on the pillar to the rear of the driver's door? Mine packed up, I cleaned the fuse connections and fuse ends and hey presto the igniter fired up again. Since then I've replaced the aluminium bullet fuses with copper ones to reduce corrosion.

Ralf85 wrote:Did you clean up the fuse connections in the small black fuse box on the pillar to the rear of the driver's door? Mine packed up, I cleaned the fuse connections and fuse ends and hey presto the igniter fired up again. Since then I've replaced the aluminium bullet fuses with copper ones to reduce corrosion.

I haven't. I'm assuming as I got 12v at the plug under the sink that the bullet fuse must be ok.

Seems that people think it's the ignitor unit on the top of the fridge. Fingers crossed.

Assume nothing. Check the basics first!

Ralf85 wrote:Assume nothing. Check the basics first!

Will do. Does that fuse not control the 12v feed going to the fridge though?

danmetallic wrote:

Ralf85 wrote:Assume nothing. Check the basics first!

Will do. That that fuse not control the 12v fed going to the fridge though?

Two fuses
Red fuse: Eberspacher night heater
White fuse: fridge/water/front panel electrics.

Loose or tarnished ends on the bullet fuses can offer enough resistance to cause problems (this is an inherent issue with these old euro style fuses) also...it is worth changing them but try to ensure the replacements are ceramic and not plastic bodied.
Also
Give the mechanical push button mechanism on the fridge a good spraying and 'working' with WD40 to ensure it operates correctly.
If all fails.
Steve at Gasure has an alternative (cheaper) auto igniter that he sells...may be worth a call.

Martin

Thanks Martin!

So I have a new ignitor, which I've fitted but still no joy

Even took the live off and put directly to battery positive in case it was the switch. And still nothing (should this have made it fire?)

What am I missing here?

I'm assuming I should be able to get it firing with a direct 12v live straight to that middle red terminal, is that right?

Can anyone confirm that the igniter should trigger when just hooked up directly to a 12 V battery like this?

Yes it should fire about two times a second.
Blue wire (earth return)
Red wire (positive feed) but only in 'gas' position on the push button.
Black wire (LED) indicator.

Note* the red feed triggered and depends on mechanical push button position......also having a sound earth....and igniter wire (any wire will do) held in close proximity of earth (car body)


Martin

California Dreamin wrote:Yes it should fire about two times a second.
Blue wire (earth return)
Red wire (positive feed) but only in 'gas' position on the push button.
Black wire (LED) indicator.

Note* the red feed triggered and depends on mechanical push button position......also having a sound earth....and igniter wire (any wire will do) held in close proximity of earth (car body)


Martin

Thanks Martin, I take it it would fire without the ignitor wire attached?

danmetallic wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:Yes it should fire about two times a second.
Blue wire (earth return)
Red wire (positive feed) but only in 'gas' position on the push button.
Black wire (LED) indicator.

Note* the red feed triggered and depends on mechanical push button position......also having a sound earth....and igniter wire (any wire will do) held in close proximity of earth (car body)


Martin

Thanks Martin, I take it it would fire without the ignitor wire attached?

Yes but whether you would see or hear anything? I'm not sure....I doubt whether the solid state trigger makes the noise..it's the high voltage jumping across the igniter...so without the igniter I'm guessing it would go to ground internally...whether it would make the same noise or not?

Martin

California Dreamin wrote:

danmetallic wrote:

California Dreamin wrote:Yes it should fire about two times a second.
Blue wire (earth return)
Red wire (positive feed) but only in 'gas' position on the push button.
Black wire (LED) indicator.

Note* the red feed triggered and depends on mechanical push button position......also having a sound earth....and igniter wire (any wire will do) held in close proximity of earth (car body)


Martin

Thanks Martin, I take it it would fire without the ignitor wire attached?

Yes but whether you would see or hear anything? I'm not sure....I doubt whether the solid state trigger makes the noise..it's the high voltage jumping across the igniter...so without the igniter I'm guessing it would go to ground internally...whether it would make the same noise or not?

Martin

Ok, I understand. I just find it strange that I installed this second one and it's also defunct.

I only hooked up the 12v cable to the fridge when testing in the van. Would it need the gas and 240v connected before firing do you think? This is getting frustrating.

The fridge has a 'flame out' fail safe (if the flame goes out the igniter should automatically start clicking) this works through the thermocouple and the mechanical position of those push button switches (thats why it is important that they are all free and operate correctly) . To overide, put a straight live and earth to the battery from the unit...like I say, you may need a wire on the igniter outlet to see the spark.
I would be checking that pos + spade connection with a test light or multi meter to see when and if it becomes live.

Martin

Thanks again Martin. Waiting for new ignitor to arrive. In the meantime I did the PC fan mod