Club 80-90 Forums

Hello All - first post here and from a complete mechanical numpty

Have a 1.9 Petrol 1989 T25 LHD

Been having problems with battery drain for last couple of months - van is parked up all week, and not been on a run for about 6 weeks as I have been working away. Have always managed to start it with use of a jump start power pack which I know isn't ideal but I just haven't had time to get it to a garage to investigate the battery drain.

Started her up last weekend with a battery power pack after battery voltage had dropped to 11.4. Went today, battery down to 10.9 volts, so attached power pack again, 12.3 volt reading, turned ignition over, and got nothing, not even the clicking noise I sometimes got when battery was low before. Lights for handbrake, battery are solid red and oil light flashing when ignition is tuned, but the engine isn't even turning or trying to.

Now at a loss of where to start the trouble shooting - could it be the ignition, the starter motor, the relay? Or should I swap the battery - I thought it would start anyway with a reading of 12.3???

As I say Im not overly technical with these things, so any pointers on where to start would be great, thanks in advance

A very common fault on non-start is the trigger (thin) wire coming off the starter motor. Its a spade connector so prone to this being exposed to the elements.

Squeeze underneath and check that first. Make sure connections are sound. If ok we can move on to next thing.

Ralph is correct, as usual, but

Paule39 wrote:Or should I swap the battery

Even though you get a reading of 12.3 Volts, I would for sure try another known good battery first. At this time of year the cold can kill a battery and an open circuit voltage reading can be misleading.

Important note = Make absolutely sure you get the red +ve lead onto the battery post marked +ve as some batteries have the posts the opposite way around to the VW T25 ones. Please double check this before actually connecting up as serious damage can/will occur if you get the leads the wrong way around.

As the above should only take a few minutes, it is worth doing before you crawl around underneath checking the thin "trigger" wire on the solenoid (which is mounted on top of the starter motor.

If you regularly don't drive for several weeks I'd suggest investing in something like this so that you can easily disconnect the battery cos over several weeks even the minimal power from a radio in standby will probably discharge the battery to a significant level ......

Your 'battery power pack' is just a crutch (booster to be used in conjunction with your starter battery as its internal power source has a low capacity) it cannot be relied upon to start the van on its own... and that's what it is doing once the main battery gets so low.
You really need to get a mains charger on your battery for a good 16 - 20 hours until fully charged.
Then you need to investigate battery drain...best disconnect your battery terminals until you eliminate the drain.

Martin

MidLifeCrisis wrote:If you regularly don't drive for several weeks I'd suggest investing in something like this so that you can easily disconnect the battery cos over several weeks even the minimal power from a radio in standby will probably discharge the battery to a significant level ......

Wish that would fit mine. I can barely spin the seat over my battery without touching one of the poles and it would foul the cover.

CovKid wrote:A very common fault on non-start is the trigger (thin) wire coming off the starter motor. Its a spade connector so prone to this being exposed to the elements.

Squeeze underneath and check that first. Make sure connections are sound. If ok we can move on to next thing.

OK thanks - I will try that tomorrow, but I think I need to get the battery charged up a bit more, as per the other post, so I will hoist the battery out (parked too far from home to do easily) and run it on trickle charge for a while...

Will report back

MidLifeCrisis wrote:If you regularly don't drive for several weeks I'd suggest investing in something like this so that you can easily disconnect the battery cos over several weeks even the minimal power from a radio in standby will probably discharge the battery to a significant level ......

My worry with one of these it will it disconnect the alarm?

Plus fitting it in the well might be difficult as the OP says

Paule39 wrote: My worry with one of these it will it disconnect the alarm?

Plus fitting it in the well might be difficult as the OP says

Yep - it would kill the alarm for sure

Alarm and possibly stereo memory will soon flatten a battery - definately over 6 weeks. You'll either have to get a second battery and keep swapping if you intend to leave it parked for lengths of time or take it for a good run once a week.

Paule39 wrote: Went today, battery down to 10.9 volts,

That's a dead battery there.
No amount of recharging will redeem it..not even divine intervention.
For a battery to be left in such a discharged state for so long means the plates will be sulphated up.
It's dead
defunct
It is no more.
The ensuing winter will kill it even more.
Don't waste your time, just replace it and disconnect it when you leave it, with a battery switch like the one mentioned.
Take it on the chin and move on.

As for security, if you leave it for any length of time immobilise it, alarms can be silenced in seconds... or six weeks

The answer we know kev, is in the sky lol....A nice big solar panel and regulator are a perfect cure for those long laid up weeks of non use.

Both Kev and myself have panels on our roofs..brilliant things to have as part of your camping setup with a couple of big leisure batteries. Combined with a 2 battery output charge regulator...well worth the money.

Martin

I fitted a battery isolator to my van. That will do a similar thing to the one mentioned earlier but just operated by removing a key. Good security feature I feel.

Martin, on the subject of the solar set up you and Andy have, what sort of cost is that if you don't mind me asking?

Hi Andy....about £120 all in...if memory serves....a few pounds more if you want the twin output controller....lots of options, my controller has a built in LCD display and cost under £20.
100watt Panel
Controller
3 metres of 25 amp twin
2 inline fuse holders
Bits and bobs I already had.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Biard-100W-Wa ... 2345327e58" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10A-Duo-Batte ... 3ce1be1379" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Some of the guys go for the flexible panels (another £25 or so) and Silcoflex them to the roof....they do look very neat when done (see Keith's on the main thread talking about this)
However, I wanted something that could be removed without trace if needed.

Martin

These solar guys - any excuse. They've run out of other people to talk about them.