Club 80-90 Forums

Currently at charnock services. Lost power on M6 just before the turn off. The choke flaps were going mental and after pulling in, as soon as I put clutch in it stalled. Oil has leaked from rocker covers and looks like the breather too. The smell was horrible. Let her cool down then put some oil in but won't start. As it cranks it sounds like the flywheel is scraping against something, like something has seized.
Waiting for AA now but worried they'll say engine has blown

was this a cu motor how can the choke flaps go mental

faggie wrote:was this a cu motor how can the choke flaps go mental

X2 ^^

..and it reads like the crankcase breather was blocked, pressurising the engine case, forcing the oil out.
Scraping could be unrelated.
oiled plugs?

My choke flap was going mental when my valve seat had gone AWOL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npz2E1C0KDU" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes it's a cu engine. The breather did look like it had spat oil out so what could cause a blockage? Now I'm home (via nice man with a truck) I've turned the key and engine turns over and even started but clearly not sounding like its on all cylinders. So I don't think it's seized which was my worst fear! Didn't keep it on for more than a few seconds though in case I did more damage.

I'm thinking my only option Is to drop the engine out and start stripping it down to see what the damage is....unless you guys have some better ideas?

Thanks

Paul

*firstly do a compression or leak down test* Well considering Boxy has experienced this and it was a dropped valve seat I think i'd lower the engine on a jack (and then stabilize with large bits of wood, bricks or anything sturdy) but not detach, so you could pull off the head from the side that the choke flap is going nuts on and see whats going on. Pics would be lovely

P.s, you've not by any chance adjusted the tappets recently?

No not adjusted the tappets recently. Did these ages ago. This issue is defo more than tappets needing adjustment. Doing a compression test will mean cranking again and I'm really worried each time I do that I'll cause more damage

Sorry my thought with the tappets was if the adjusters had been over tightened they would be holding the inlet valve open, hence giving some where for the ignited gases to go.

won't have to crank it if you do a leak down test though, you'll just have to turn the engine to tdc with a socket on the nut in the center of the flywheel, if not then pull that head off

paulandchez wrote:Doing a compression test will mean cranking again and I'm really worried each time I do that I'll cause more damage

You won't damage anything that's not already buggered. If you're not happy cranking it, you might as well just pull the engine and take the head off to have a look.

Ok thanks guys. If I'm not going to do any more damage than already done, would you reverse on to ramps for easier access, or try getting it up using jacks and blocks for height?

paulandchez wrote:Ok thanks guys. If I'm not going to do any more damage than already done, would you reverse on to ramps for easier access, or try getting it up using jacks and blocks for height?

I'd go with the ramps.

Aye, the ramps save a bit of hassle

just go with the ramps but just jack van up and fit ramps under wheels don't drive it up onto ramps

Hello,

Calm down.. its an Aircooled..

Simple and robust....

If it is not losing oil and will start and run.. then you are on the right track.

However.. if you want to continue in Aircooled Bliss..

Then a engine out and top end overhaul will be needed.....

A little video to get you started..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGC3EZX ... gNrGfa9EAg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cordialement,

Thanks all.

Sarran....thanks for the link. I've used your vids loads of times now and esp that full rebuild post you did. Very helpful indeed. Daft thing is, it's only a few months since I drove all the way to Vendee and back without an issue, and I nip down the road to Wigan and she goes bang!