Club 80-90 Forums

Do I need to disconnect the battery when Replacing Alternator Regulator?

Probably best as there is a heavy cable connected to the battery next to the regulator in-case you slip with the screwdriver.

Thank you. All done. Got a nice full charge now!

Question for ya = what voltage reg did you buy ?
and, have you checked the voltage you are actually now getting at the battery with the motor running (and after a bit of a run).

Just curious / gathering statistics

You're always collating statistics John. One day you'll turn up with a massive chart and amaze us all.

ghost123uk wrote:Question for ya = what voltage reg did you buy ?
and, have you checked the voltage you are actually now getting at the battery with the motor running (and after a bit of a run).

Just curious / gathering statistics

Regulator was from Brickwerks. Im getting 14.2 after fitting the new regulator.

I am having some issues though – maybe you can help! The battery light was coming on at high revs – usually at around 60mph on the motorway. I took a battery reading and was getting around 13.4, so took a look at the brushes on the alternator (Bosch 90amp) and they were very worn, hence the new regulator/bushes.

This seemed to fix the voltage issue, but now the battery light is on all the time! What could be causing this? I have checked all fuses and they are fine.

Could I have installed the regulator wrong? I was very careful, but Im no expert.

Dont think there is a fuse on the wire from alternstor to dash. Does the charge lamp brightness stay the same between ignition on and engine running or does it get slightly dimmer? I had this problem and it turned out to be a bad connection on the lamp (small blue wire) connection on inside the alternator. With the engjne running, the out put on the main alternator connection and the ignition lamp connector should be the same.

Starts off dim, then get brighter once I rev.

So I looked at the wiring and it all seems ok. Battery light comes on when revs are high – Pulling away, coming down the grease. Light goes out when idling and low revs. Could it be worn slip rings causing the problem?

Are slip rings something that can be replaced or is it new alternator time?

Have you got a fridge relay switched by the blue wire? If you have it may be worth disconnecting the relay to rule out a problem there. Electrickery does some very strange things on these vans!

Not that I know of. What would I look for to tell?

I presume the alternator itself is ok as it charges. Would I be right in saying there is a bad contact somewhere?
Could the battery be the problem?

The brushes I removed were worn but not to the extent where the copper/spring is exposed which I'm led to believe causes wear to the slip rings.

Reads like the diode is on the way out in the alternator

Repairable or New Alternator?

Is there a procedure for checking diodes? and can I still drive the van in its current state?

Anyone?

Repairable, yes of course, but have you an alternator repairer near you?