Club 80-90 Forums

If the difflock was actually locking, you would never be able to turn, so the switch needs checking..

As for pulling.. it could be a suspension component failed, the wheel bearing seizeing (but that wouldnt last long..) CVs generally makes a hell of a noise.. so could be brake dragging.. or a diff bearing , but again that would mean the bearing wouldnt last long...

Need to check out things before driving any further as any could cause a major break...

If the difflock was actually locking, you would never be able to turn, so the switch needs checking..

Yes you'd certainly know it on tarmac - it'd be dangerous squirming around I'd have said. The tell-tale lights do play up, but you really need someone who knows them well to make sure, one it IS off it shouldn't ever come on again unless the vac pipes are connected up wrong - worth asking prevowner if they've been working in that area?

If it's as bad as it sounds, then, get the brakes and shafts checked out - they don't normally 'pull', even after a right thumping off-road. Check the backs as well unless it can be felt easily through the steering... Is it power steering by the way?

Derby area anyone?

Could be a fault with the steering rack.. can you turn the sttering easily in both directions when stationary? might be worth jackingthe front off the ground and see too..

I presume you've bought Terry's old van - I wondered when this fault would surface on one of the forums.

I was lined up to buy the van from Steve if the pulling could be rectified. Obviously Steve didn't manage to sort it.

We spent quite a long time puzzling over it - couldn't see any obvious component damge. I understand the van had the problem when Terry had it, though it might be worse now (it pulled very heavily when I test drove it). We couldn't get front diff lock to engage at the time.

It might be worth checking the sterring geometry - I know the tracking has been checked but we thought that it might need the fore and aft adjustment looking at. Steve was talking about getting it checked on a four wheel alignment jig - maybe that would be a good starting point?

Lovely van by the way!

Well, if it might be the radius arm adjustment, then take a 2 minute peek at the threads protruding behind the large front rubbers. Won't be accurate but one imagines the mount of thread each side would be 'about' the same.

Or measure from the rear tread to the wheel arch A pillar.

I think the radius rods roughly control caster angle. Yes, a full geometry cross-check should eb done, and warning! not many are capable of this, even if they do have the equipment.

Tread pattern the same either side?

Dont bother with a "tyre" place for geometry go to a good bodyshop with alignment gear..

Also, I (and prob we!!) would say it shouldnt be anything to do with the diff lock, treat that as a seperate issue.. But thats not to say it isnt to do with the diff bearings..
One way to dispel the diff as not the problem would be to remove drive shafts/swap to another diff unit..

pop it up to Simon at www.brickwerks.co.uk in huddersfield.

I have a memory knocking around in my head of looking at Terry's two front wheels o/s and n/s and spotting that one sits in a completely different place to the other - one was towards the front, one towards the rear. Seemed to remember Terry saying that he had to cut some treads down a bit to stop them buzzing - but only on one side...

Which would mean that Clive's Radius Arm suggestion could well be the answer - non?

Or the upper wishbone is on upside down.. (But IIRC Russel said it cant go on like that!!)

Jake, Good memory there, or a good eye, after all who looks that closely at Syncros

But easy enough to check in a couple of minutes, loooking at the thread protrusion... and those bushes are one thing that I like to change, as they never look shot, but usually are when you strip them out and seem to make a big difference

It was the mt's on the yellow rims that Terry had skimmed, iirc.
have a check of rear springs - broken pigtail gives pull on steering ime.