Club 80-90 Forums

First - if my hunch/idea is wrong I'll book back into gasure but...

Had previous problem fixed at Gasure (the LPG wouldn't switch back from petrol) with new computer and a few tweaks, Steve also adjusted carbs so it'd run better on petrol... The engine idle is now much slower and it's a little coughy and spluttery as well - have changed spark plugs to iridium single-points which helped but...

LPG occasionally cuts out - not when running but when idling, slowing etc. or otherwise near(ish) stalling poiint it just cuts out.

Would adjusting the engine idle to be a little faster help this - or is it more serious and needs booking in and the trip to Chester?

Steve

Strange that, we just started having the same problem yesterday,we just had our conversion done a few weeks ago and are going back down to see Steve in a few weeks when we have done 1000 miles, i meant to ring him today but forgot , it has been running well until yesterday apart from a few cold start chuggs, i was blaming the wet weather yesterday but i know nowt!!!!
Rob

Thanks - enough info to know this its non-trivial and worth getting sorted properly., Not a big problem but intermittant (always jump startable if rolling) will contact Steve when money and tiem are a little more favourable!

If Steve did the install, you need to speak with him..

But IMHO, it sounds like the idle "bleed" on the LPG is set too low.. and needs a tweak up..

Cool damp conditions means higher air density and therefore more oxygen, which mean you need a little more fuel..

Cool - thanks, will tweak the flow a little then to make it slightly richer now its getting colder and wetter (that's nice and easy, no pesky tamper proof screw caps or messing up carb settings there)

If that don't cure will get abck to steve.

Clockwise to tighten/reduce LPG increase air, anti-clockwise to boost LPG/reduce air am I right?

Will give it a quarter turn tonight.

Steve

Clockwise reduces lpg anti clockwise increases LPG, does nothing to the air though..
If you are adjusting the one in the hose from Vaporiser to carb then that isnt what you need to do.. the idle bleed is one of the screws on the side of the body of the vaporiser it needs opening a bit.. normal range is 1-1.5 (no more than 2) turns out..

Never blindly turn things a full turn.. it makes an amazing difference, 1/4 turn max at any time but mark the original setting before you change any thing.. (then you can go back tothat if it doesnt work)

Be warned.. always consult your installer BEFORE changing anything...

THanks for info on this - only screw I knew about adjusting was the big one from vaporiser to carb, so will leave that as it is and try and locate this idle one - but the phrase 'one of the screws' worries me a little - any easy way of identifying (a pic would be best ;7)

Steve at Gasure is a days missions away to turn a screw 1/2 turn so it'd be good to try misself...

Any location info on this screw to adjust would be a bonus.

You sir, are a star sir

1/4 turn on the vapouriser sorted out the idle perfectly, and a 1/4 turn on the main mix has stopped ALL the popping again (thanks to NGK iridium single point plugs as well )

My van runs SOOO smoothly now - scotland was a joy at weekend - apart from the flat tyre and gale force winds.

hi stevewright76
I seem to have the same problem too

Can anyone tell me or post a piccy of the idle bleed screw
thanks

irishkeet

Will try and post a pic - if you take a look under/near the tank you should find it - it'll be the only other brass screw and does sort it out

Had a bunch of issues more recently with total cut out - which was a loose connection on the computer so could be worth checking there as well.

Steve

Keet, i wouldnt advise tampering with any screw that is not the power/ econ adjustment in the rubber pipe, unless you can be sure what you are doing...... if it has been running ok, it ISNT that adjustment screw on the carb altering itself, its something else that has changed.......

if you really must fiddle with it, be sure to mark where it is before you change anything, as you can soon mess the job big style and will need where to put it back to........

is it ok on petrol?
look for vac leaks on the carbs and electrical connections

Thanks Mocki

I think ill take your advice
will check for leaks
sometimes it runs fine other times coming up to light and it splutters and dies, will also check on petty on the way to bus stopover tomorrow

cheers
irishkeet

many thanks for your quick replies....
I'm just back from bus stopover and i have managed to narrow the problem down a bit....

All my wiring is fine as i was working on this a few weeks ago
plugs were replaced by Steve (gasure) in Feb 2008
Replaced Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm & HT Leads at Bus Stopover y'day

While driving to bus stopover the van kept cutting out in slow traffic on LPG
Driving along on LPG is fine its when i come to break for a roundabout or whatever the van just dies.
While stationary the van can tickover fine on LPG. As soon as I pull the throttle and rev it and then let it back out it splutters and dies

So we put it onto petrol to test and its fine...ticks over fine starts and ticks over fine, and starts from cold and ticks over fine
So I'm guessing there is an LPG issue...

Im going to Steve in Sept to get an SS exhaust fitted but between now and then I have 10 days driving in South Wales and another 10 day trip to Devon & Cornwall so I really want to get this sorted.

My only solution at the moment it to switch to petrol when leaving the motorway.

Im going to drop Steve an email tomorrow to see if he has any ideas i can try.

I was wondering if anyone else has any ideas

many thanks

irishkeet