Club 80-90 Forums

Hi everyone I have just finished changing the factory cooler for an air/oil cooler and have uploaded some pics to photobucket. Here is the link,
http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/123-j ... x%20cooler" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I hope it works!!
You will see that I have used some AN10 pipework although I would suggest anyone trying this should use a similar set up but with AN8 fittings and hose.
The cooler was £27.00 from Ebay, It is a 16 row approx 12 inches long and 2 inches thick by 4 inches wide. The Fittings into the gearbox are AN10 and the other side is M12x1.5. (I suggest using AN8 M12x1.5). I have used Dowty washers to seal the adaptors to the box .(washer with a self centering rubber insert). I would suggest using quality fittings as the chinese ones are often a bit leaky as I have found out previously. The adaptors cost about £12 and the 90 degree AN10 push fit bits were about £14 for the pair. The straight ones on the cooler came with it but AN8 ones can be purchased for about £7 each. The hose is about 6-8 pounds a metre. With a cooler this size a stat is not needed but if you tow and use a bigger cooler such as a 25-30 row you will need an 80 degrees bypass stat in the lines near the gearbox so as not to run it too cold. I have a stat but as I have used AN10 for now it won't fit!!! I have been assured that unless it is 10c or more below freezing My set up
is ok!! DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AN fittings because they deform and leak!! finger tight then 90-180 degrees absolute max. Total cost about £75.00

nice to do the picks etc but i would be concerned about the cooler placement as its right in the path of crap chucked up and when you get a leak driving you will have no warning till its too late,
mm

You are correct about the placement it is in line with the front wheels but so far there has not been a problem with crud thrown up Although I wont discount it. As far as the leak situation It doesnt matter what type of cooler you run a leak is always possible, I did wonder whether to fit a combined transmission temperature and pressure gauge like the sort they have in america in a single 50mm display gauge. This is next on the list !!

true ref the leaks but when placed in the more customary positions they are not in the line of fire, what you could do is make /obtain a louvred panel and this would allow plenty airflow yet prevent rocks, you can also duct with a trap/baffle that directs solids but it gets a bit more technical so maybe not a good idea.how about good front mudflaps and an auxillary flap further back
gauges are a very good idea, on race motors we always run them, burnt oil from whatever reason is a box killer
mm

Thanks for the advice, I may consider a louvre panel. As far as the gauges go I have a spare pressure gauge which covers 0 to 100 psi which may be overkill on the transmission but I'm not sure where to place the sender. I cant see a tapping with a plug in asking for one so it may have to go in the cooler line which may be a lower pressure? As for temperature I have a sump sender but no gauge as yet!!!