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Bleed screw

Posted: 07 Aug 2014, 17:06
by Eloise
Hi, put engine in, filled with coolant, ran engine to start bleeding, topped up tank and went to undo bleed screw and it snapped off at the head........ This is a plastic side tank rad and plastic bleed screw, are replacements available anywhere? Please help

Cheers

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 07 Aug 2014, 18:55
by itchyfeet
Rad bleed screw 7s standard m8x10 stainless is best
got to get the old bit out though

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 07 Aug 2014, 19:17
by Eloise
Hi, is that for replacing the plastic ones, I have read I think that there are metal ones and plastic ones. It's to replace a plastic one, the old one is out and I have wound in a short metal bolt. This won't tighten and needs to be longer. I am going to try a brake union bolt, the type that is hollow and cross drilled on the shank. I just need to find a small rubber seal to fit in the recess in the rad as I presume a copper washer won't seal as I dare not apply too much torque to it. What do you reckon?

Failing that it's a 120 pound ne rad from gsf for the sake of a bleed screw

Cheers neil

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 07 Aug 2014, 19:36
by itchyfeet
My old rad and my new rad, dunno about plastic screws, worst case id be drilling out and tapping m10 or try fitting an an m8 helicoil, jamming in another thread size without tapping is a bodge that wont last

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Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 07 Aug 2014, 19:47
by Eloise
Thanks so much for that, mine looks same rad but had a flatish, 20mm plastic screw in it with cross slots drilled in the top. I think I just need to pull rad forward and drop in a longer bolt. I presume that I cut the bolt to short to pick up on the threads successfully enough, for access with the rad in situ.

Tomorrow's job sorted then. Spent all last weekend and every day this week on it so far. Might actually get to drive it soon ha ha.

Cheers neil

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 08 Aug 2014, 12:30
by Eloise
Now fixed with a longer bolt and sealing washer. Filled rad through bleed hole so I did not have to touch the bolt too much. Seems to have worked, 30 mins run about in traffic and needle goes t 3 quarters and fan kicks in and cools down, heaters blow hot, rad is hot. Just need to check bottle levels when cold, check oil level, bolt front panels back on and off we go, wahey

Cheers neil

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 08 Aug 2014, 18:26
by itchyfeet
Well done :ok

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 09 Aug 2014, 20:10
by waltraud
Hi, good job and sounds easily sorted. I have a similar prob in my 1983 dg with metal bleed bolt.....which I tjink is spinning/stripped thread. How fo you 'move the rad forward' to be able to drill and tap a larger bolt size? Thanks. NB ive got an lpg tank where thd spate should be so no fun trying to change it!! #$$#!

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 11 Aug 2014, 22:02
by Eloise
Hi, I unbolted the bottom bracket which has slotted holes, this drops the rad side down and enables the top to be pulled forward enough to work on.

Hope this helps

Cheers neil

Re: Bleed screw

Posted: 12 Aug 2014, 09:24
by waltraud
Cheers.