ghost123uk wrote:I have done some of the less "important" areas with some P1800 wet and dry, with water with some car shampoo in it. That seemed to work ok. It left the paint feeling smooth and glossy. I then clay-bared it, then waxed it with "Poorboys Natty's wax". The results look good to my eye, but I am hesitant to use that method on the main panels.
John, I take it that this is the van you had a
little grief with a while back? If you have overspray on adjacent panels and the like, dont worry too much as the paint - 2k presumably - will be well and truly cured by now.In fact, so hard that cutting it by hand will be bliddy hard graft!
Buy yourself a 3m or similar rubber hand rubbing down block, some P1200/1500 grit wet and dry paper and tackle it accordingly, with some washing up liquid to help 'slip' Keep away from any edges or you risk busting through
and from time to time, remove the paper and use the block as a squeegee across the area treated to see what you have. You should have a nice, flat surface, perhaps with a degree of 'orange-peel' which is fine. [You could use 800/1000 grit too, but it is a little more risky to break into undercoats, but of course faster]Then apply some Farecla G3 to cut the paint, moving up to the next grade for a final finish. I use an varible speed electric mop, fitted with a solid foam head. There are a few foam densities to choose from, like red, for aggresive cutting, then white, and onto black [I think thats correct, but the paint factor can advise you for sure] And dont use a high speed one, or you do risk damaging the paint film.
Apply the compounds with a mist of water,
remember you are using a mains 240v mop from a house plant watering bottle for example, and machine the surface for a high gloss, without resorting to wax though of course, do apply some right at the end of the processto preserve it.
And I'd advise your masking adjacent rubbers, blackwork,etc as the compound waste will stain it
Good luck, and take your time
