Club 80-90 Forums

Right...I need to install the electrics for my van after ripping them all out due to incompetant previous owners.
I've read loads of stuff and think I've got there, but would like one of you experts to cast your eye over this and tell me I'm right/wrong/in-different!

I've added fuse and cable sizes where I think I know them, but any suggestions would be appreciated.





thanks

Paul

What is the box which looks like it might say 'Relay' on it that seems to connect the split charge relay, the fridge, the 240V and 12v fuse box ...... ??

That's the relay which was in my fridge circuit originally. I thought that would enable switching from main battery whilst driving to leisure/mains when stopped.......but like I said, grease and spanners is more my thing

MidLifeCrisis wrote:What is the box which looks like it might say 'Relay' on it that seems to connect the split charge relay, the fridge, the 240V and 12v fuse box ...... ??

Agreed. This bit around the fridge relay is a little confusing.

If your fridge is a 3-way fridge, then the 240V supply can go direct to the fridge via an RCD, no relay required (You can always put a switch in-line if you don't want to use the RCD as a on/off switch).

The fridge relay is normally used for the 12V feed, to switch a direct 12V feed from the starter battery to the fridge, using the ignition as a trigger voltage. This stops the fridge draining the starter battery when the ignition is not switched on. Looking at the schematic there is a single output to the fridge (12v or 240v ?), but 3 inputs into the relay (Leisure Battery via the fuse box, Split charge, and 240v mains), I don't think this is correct. Generally a relay is used to switch a high current source on/off using a much lower current trigger. The relay trigger would need to be earthed on one side to allow the relay to close, thus passing the higher current (Assuming it's a normally open type relay)

I think most people avoid using the leisure battery for the fridge because of the high current it'll draw, flattening the battery very quickly.

This is kinda similar, but uses a manual switch to to control the trigger voltage.

The thick red line is the high current supply.
The thin red line is the low current trigger.

Thanks for the clarity. I knew that bit was suspect, hence the question marks around there

Depending on the fridge model, you may need a permanent 12v supply to power the ignitor when running on gas. That is very low current so can be connected directly to either battery.

I have a very similar diagram to that !

That looks great Mocki....might be my eyes or a wobbly hand, but I can't read the text. Any chance of a better pic....or some glasses for me

Thanks

Try a bigger picture?

Do you ever use hook up Steve?

Perfect

kevtherev wrote:Do you ever use hook up Steve?

Occasionally, in deep midwinter when it is cheap enough or free.... Or to chill the fridge down prior to loading up for away , at home!
Up Untill the solar panel installation I did need to top up the battery's if we were not driving much , but Nothing in the van runs on mains other than the charger and PSU and the mains part of the fridge . Everything is 12v , couldn't see the point of having two of everything .....

Not used hooky since the solar panel was fitted Steve.
Even before then it was similar to you.