Club 80-90 Forums

I want to fit a permanent guage as my engine is getting old and i get the occasional buzzer on a hot day coming off motorway, probably nothing to worry about but id rather know whats going on and im going to try tweaking the oil pump and this will tell me if im improving things

so what you got?, any reccomendations, ebay is a wash with guages

i guess i need an m10x1 t piece so i can keep my existing switch between the pushrod tubes
if its an electrical guage it needs a sender, can you get them m10x1? Or do i need a t piece with mixed threads ( lots are 1/8 or 1/4 NPT)

are the cheapo ones any good, no point in having an inaccurate guage?

Advice greatfully recieved

cheers

Paul

I have two TIM gauges, one on the buggy engine and one on the camper, I have fitted both on the rear take off ( below the water pump) the buggy does not have the rear mounting in the way and I was able to use a tee piece.The camper engine is an MV and has the vw oil to water cooler on it so space was more limited and I used a flexible take off from I think jjl motor sport to mount the sender and pressure switch up out of the way on top of the engine mounted to the cylinder head earth points. Be aware that you will scare yourself with the lack of pressure when the engine is hot but it will give you a bench mark to compare with. the MV was rebuilt with new bearings and the crankshaft was not worn but I still only get 25-28 at 80 degrees on the motorway at 3000rpm. The buggy is a bit higher but has got a larger oil pump, if using a larger pump be aware that the rear mounting, and cross over water pipe to rear of crankshaft pulley will give clearance issues. I did have to zero the needle on the gauge with the ignition on by remving the bezel and tweaking the needle because of the long run to the dash for the cable ( I had previously fitted a trailer multi core cable from the dash to the engine compartment when putting in the LPG)

TIM mechanical gauge.
300mm heat resistant flexi pipe, with M10 X 1 male thread at one end (Pirtek), T piece
8 metres PTFE capilary tube.

Is what I have had for several years
Very Accurate and a simple physical link to the oil pressure in the cab
Mostly available from Demon tweeks

kevtherev wrote:TIM mechanical gauge.
300mm heat resistant flexi pipe, with M10 X 1 male thread at one end (Pirtek), T piece
8 metres PTFE capilary tube.

Is what I have had for several years
Very Accurate and a simple physical link to the oil pressure in the cab
Mostly available from Demon tweeks

got to be the most accurate, but once had a friend who's rally beetle was being driven by his girlfriend and the pipe fractured ( yes I know it wasn't routed well) and wrecked the engine, made me nervous of capilary ever since

weimarbus wrote:

kevtherev wrote:TIM mechanical gauge.
300mm heat resistant flexi pipe, with M10 X 1 male thread at one end (Pirtek), T piece
8 metres PTFE capilary tube.

Is what I have had for several years
Very Accurate and a simple physical link to the oil pressure in the cab
Mostly available from Demon tweeks

got to be the most accurate, but once had a friend who's rally beetle was being driven by his girlfriend and the pipe fractured ( yes I know it wasn't routed well) and wrecked the engine, made me nervous of capilary ever since

Thank goodness for modern flexible PTFE tube!.

My friend had an electronic one, He went blissfully about his business with a false pressure reading from a dicky sender.
No harm done, but it made me nervous of electric ones.

Thanks for the comments

the Tim guages all seem to be 0-100 psi is that pretty standard?

also any difference in pressure do you think between the two oil pressure switch locations?

I don't think so, and the rear sender location is up out of harms way and you wont need to undo exhaust studs etc to remove the pushrod tube cover and space is very limited between the tubes, you would also be screwing into the ali crankcase rather than a steel reducing plug. Access at the back if relatively easy if you remove the drive belt and water pump pulley

Re PSI mine 80 when starting from cold, as I'm getting on a bit I can't think in Bars and it would be even more scary when looking at zilch when hot.

weimarbus wrote:I don't think so, and the rear sender location is up out of harms way and you wont need to undo exhaust studs etc to remove the pushrod tube cover and space is very limited between the tubes, you would also be screwing into the ali crankcase rather than a steel reducing plug. Access at the back if relatively easy if you remove the drive belt and water pump pulley

Re PSI mine 80 when starting from cold, as I'm getting on a bit I can't think in Bars and it would be even more scary when looking at zilch when hot.

With a flexible t piece id think it should work fine between pushrod tubes ( my pushrod covers are not bolted, just stretched over studs), its the proximity to the fanbelt i dont like at the rear, id be worried if the flexible moved it would rub through

dont suppose you have a pic?

I have to say im leaning towards the electric one for ease of install (already got some spare wires front to back)

thanks for the comments

Paul

Mine goes straight from the push rod tubes to the cab
I think they are similar in installation the tubing is a as thick as a wire.

Hopefully here are some pics

sorry but only just got the hang of pics and don't know how to do multiple clearance is 8mm to the belt and the belt does not wobble/expand at this point only on the top

and here is the bling bit

wow thanks for the piccies

Still can't decide, some more research needed I think before I buy.

kevtherev wrote:Mine goes straight from the push rod tubes to the cab
I think they are similar in installation the tubing is a as thick as a wire.

Kev, do you have a T adaptor with the oil pressuse switch also between the pushrod tubes?

itchyfeet wrote:

kevtherev wrote:Mine goes straight from the push rod tubes to the cab
I think they are similar in installation the tubing is a as thick as a wire.

Kev, do you have a T adaptor with the oil pressuse switch also between the pushrod tubes?

Yes.